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2003 9-5 Aero Wagon 90K drs_install <-- search key word
In this case the green rollers were perfect. The lower ends of the rubber tracks were not secured in the steel channels. I could see a trace of were glue was on the rear rubber track, but not on the front [probably in the steel channel.
I pulled the steel wire clips from the rollers and with a twist of a large screw driver between the steel arms and the tracks on the window, they popped right out with no fuss. When replacing, I put some silicone lube on the green roller perimeters and center bores and they were very easy to snap in; then put the wire clips in place. Also applied some silicone to the rubber tracks.
To reengage the front of the window to the front rubber track, lift window by hand at an angle and place in the front track then square the window in the rear track and then secure into the rollers. The window can drop and come out of the front track if it drops, easy to repeat.
What glue to use? I think that any of the "Goop" products would be a good choice as they can fill a gap. After assembly, I left the window down to fill the rubber in the steel channels as the glue dries which will be several hours.
To remove the door skin:
Remove the filler-cover on the rear flank of the bulge at the mirror. Details will be different for the driver's door with a control switch there. The hole is good to get fingers in to start pulling out the black interior frame. The frame is a brittle plastic. Take care and do not attempt in cold temperatures. Pull plugs at the door lock lever cavity and two on the "arm rest/handle". Remove 3 T30 screws and captive washers. Magnetic pickup will be useful.
To remove the door skin, start at the bottom and start easing out the plastic pins from plastic sockets in the door. When these are free, pull up on the bottom of the door to lift vertically while making sure the plastic pins are not partway into things where they would shear off. The black plastic strip on the inside against the glass is a tight fit onto a steel lip of the door and take force to get it too slide up.
As the bottom of the door, there is a courtesy light, press it out the bottom, remove plug, set lamp aside and set the door skin aside.
When replacing the door skin, make sure that all pins are getting into socket before pressing things in, otherwise things would snap. The top detail will need some firm force to get into place and you need to attend to the door lock tab and the courtesy lamp before pressing things in place.
You can figure out the moisture barrier foam, with some care and perhaps some masking tape later.
When replacing the upper black frame trim, start with the back edge and be careful with the pins. The main span is plastic tabs that should be non-fragile. As you get towards the mirror housing, start getting it squared in place sooner or later as it would otherwise be digging into things at an angle and for the last details watch the pins on the forward lower area.
The green rollers slide in-out of the channel ends, but the channel ends are slightly closed and you can tap them in or out of either end as required.
So no special tools required. You may need new rollers. In my case the rubber was loose and allowed the window to get between the rubber and its steel channel.
posted by 108.207.11...
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