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Starter installation notes (long)  3 Saabers Like This Post!
Posted by Doug W [Email]  (#2371) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Doug W) on Mon, 9 May 2016 22:25:02
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I just did my starter after months of hand wringing. All kinds of complaints about the 18 mm bolt below the thermostat. Here's what I did:
1. Drain the coolant into a clean pan for re-use.
2. Remove the upper radiator hose at the thermostat.
3. Loosen the clamp on the air inlet hose at the throttle body and the vacuum line to the pop-off valve.
4. Remove the line between the turbo and the pop-off valve. There's a spring clamp here that needs squeezing. Loosen the 10 mm nut at the turbo. Remove the 13 mm nut that secures the inlet line to the head.
5. Rotate the air inlet line about 30° counter-clockwise. Remove the vacuum line from the pump on the head and at the intake manifold. This is plastic and can be quite brittle - treat carefully.
6. Move the Upper radiator hose up and to the left (right side of car).
7. Remove the battery cover and the negative battery cable.
NOW you have more than ample room to access the 18 mm bolt that retains the starter. After doing all this the 18 mm bolt was facile. I cracked it loose with a flex head 1/2" ratchet and 18 mm six point socket. Then I used a stubby 3/8" drive with an 18 mm six point socket to remove the bolt.
8. Raise the car sufficiently to comfortably get under it with a creeper. That's typically about 14 - 16 inches off the floor. Remove the leads from the solenoid. Use some butyl rubber (dum-dum) to retain the small and blind 10 mm nut on the back side of the solenoid. This is the only fastener that is truly blind. Cut the tie wrap. I noted that the nuts on the old starter were 12 mm and the new one has 13 mm ones. The threads are the same.
9. Remove the 16 mm nut from the bottom of the starter.
10. Wiggle the starter a bit, pull it back and rotate it out of its home. No I did NOT remove the support from the block to the intake manifold. The starter rotates freely and does not interfere with it.
Installation is the reverse.
While in there I did the oil pressure switch. You'll need a 24 mm crow foot to do this without cutting any wires. Whoever said that some of the new switches were 22 mm (like an O2 sensor) was in my case, incorrect. Watch using that crowfoot as there is only clearance through about 120° of arc. I had to install it, turn it, remove it, turn back the ratchet, re-install and tighten again. It took about 4 such iterations to finally fully seat the switch.
The connector on that oil switch was difficult. I got it apart with one hand a screwdriver from above, but could NOT put it back together by myself. I recruited my wife who held the connector on the harness end from above while I installed it from below. It's a two handed operation and unless you're an Octopus (or a very skilled tech who can do it one handed) you'll need an assistant.
Following oil switch installation I put in the new starter and put everything back.
What a revelation! I thought that SAABs always cranked slowly. Was I wrong. The car now cranks like my BMW. It was the starter all along. I've been through 3 batteries (2012, 14, and 15) and about two years ago I did the positive battery cable. Now we can go places and not worry about the car nearly not starting.
posted by 75.38.241...
_______________________________________ '03 Aero 5Spd, Krona, 290 bhp (son's) Sold: '04 Aero Sport Kombi, Sport Tek, BSR '03 Linear 5 spd. Krona Mods, 350 bhp
, Mon, 9 May 2016 22:25:02 <-- Viewing This Message
3, Tue, 10 May 2016 07:13:46
, Wed, 11 May 2016 12:24:52, Tue, 10 May 2016 14:44:19
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