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Hello,
Yesterday I finished installing a 1992 16V Turbo engine in my UK 1989 900T 8V. The 16V engine came from an accident damaged car that I bought complete, and the engine started and ran perfectly. My own car in 8V form also started and ran perfectly before the conversion.
A number of modifications had to be made during the process of the conversion but the only one that I would think might affect the cars igntion system was my changing of the three pin connector to the Hall sensor on the side of the distributor. The 8V car had three pins in a horizontal alignment, but the 16V car had them in vertical alignment, so I cut the horizontal type connector from the 8V wiring and spliced/soldered on about 3 inches of wire and a vertical type connector.
Basically, when I tried to start the engine today there was no movement from the rev counter (which I believe proves a functioning ignition system), and the car did not fire-up. On removal of a spark plug it was found to be flodded with petrol, so after cleaning I attempted to see if there was a spark by earthing the plug to the chassis and having the engine cranked - None. I checked to see if there was a spark from the HT lead from the coil - None.
Next I did the following things one at a time: Swapped the coil, Ignition amplifier, leads and distributor cap for the ones from the wrecked car - No difference.
Next, I got out my Bentley manuals (8 & 16V) and went through the tests for Hall ignition. From the 16V manual (same tests as in 8V manual), section 340-6, tests 1,2,3,5,6&7 proved succesful, but test 4 which is a test for an oscillating voltage from terminals 3 & 6 of the Amplifier unit during manual cranking of the engine did not give the expected results. A steady 6V is all that was recorded. This test failing suggests a wiring fault or a faulty Hall Sensor.
Anyway, tonight I removed the distributor and amplifier unit wiring from the wiring loom of the wrecked 16V car and 'Scotchblocked' it on to the (ex 8V) car, hopefully bypassing any fault in the wiring to the Hall transmitter, but unfortunately this made no difference either.
Incidentally, the 16V car appeared to have a compensating (ballast) resistor inside the front right hand wheel well. Would this make any difference?
Has anyone any pointers or advice because unless I find something completely obvious tomorrow I will be totally stuck.
My only thought is that maybe the Hall sensor on the 16V distributor is somehow not compatible with the wiring in the 8V car, or has simply failed. I don't particularly want to buy a new distributor or even a repair kit until I am totally satisfied that that is where the problem lies.
Thanks in advance,
Angus M Smith
Scotland
posted by 213.40.1...
, Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:22:34
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