1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
SAAB 900 Turn-signal Switch
The lowly turn-signal (or "directional") switch is one of the most oft-used switches on your car -- at least, it is if you care at all about the surrounding traffic. After many thousands of uses, the inner parts of any switch begin to wear and/or break. On many SAABs, this stalk also carries the cruise control switch. In that case especially, a replacement switch can be quite costly.
- Chris Rogers, SDSOG
Avoidance:
Perhaps the best way to increase the longevity of any switch is to use it once per day, gently engaging all possible positions for a moment or two before returning it to its normally off position. I dare say that while this procedure will, in all likelihood, allow your switch to outlast most of the other mechanical devices in the vehicle, it may not be the most prudent method of maneuvering through traffic. Therefore, use that switch with gusto -- and when it fails, repair it!
Repair:
I have had good luck repairing these switches, it's actually quite simple. Personally, I have applied this technique only to SAAB 900 switches from M87-94 that had the integral cruise control switch. The process should be substantially similar on other models. Two things can cause this problem: a broken or weak spring and/or a worn cam. The fix involves replacing the spring and increasing the depth of the détentes on the cam...
Before:
1 Drill, with 1/8" bit
2 Phillips screwdriver and Torx driver with various bits
3 Small, sharp X-Acto knife or tiny rat-tail file
4 DANCO faucet seat replacement kit for Sears 2S-1H faucet, part #88005. This is a known good fit for an '89 SPG with cruise control -- if yours is different, consider bringing the old spring with you to your friendly neighborhood hardware store.
5 Superglue
During:
1 Remove the plastic cover below the steering column
2 Remove the screws attaching the switch bracket to the column
3 Take careful note of the wire locations on the switch itself
4 Disconnect wires and remove the switch from the bracket
5 With the 1/8" bit, drill off the two rivet caps that hold the switch together -- take off only enough to open the assembly
6 Disassemble the switch, removing the plunger and inner spring
7 Degunk the innards and note the worn cam surface
NOTE: The spring presses against a plunger which fits into the détentes on the cam. As the cam lobes and spring wear, the plunger is no longer held firmly in the détente. When this happens, the lever either won't return to neutral, or won't remain engaged.
8 If you use the DANCO spring suggested above, note that it's somewhat narrower than the original. Since the plunger must fit within the spring, you'll need to file enough material from the plunger to get it to fit within the spring. (Believe me, it makes sense when it's in your hand.) I used a utility knife to simply round off the corners of the plunger and pressed it into place within the spring.
9 The cam material is fairly soft and increasing the depth of the détentes can be done with a sharp X-acto knife or a tiny rat tail file. A very small increase in depth is all that's needed... too much and the switch won't return to neutral.
10 Reassemble the switch, testing for proper operation. Believe it or not, a drop or two of superglue on top of each rivet stud is enough to hold it together for a long time.
11 Reinstall the switch in the bracket, reconnect the wires and screw it all back onto the column.
The whole process, save shopping time, took me about 1.5 hours. The faucet repair kit came with two springs and cost me $2.99 -- not bad.
posted by 12.81.2...
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