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before you replace the wire...
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Posted by gorper (more from gorper) on Fri, 15 Aug 2003 12:05:53 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Loss of Power, Fried Wire from Alternator, Saaberinphilly, Fri, 15 Aug 2003 09:15:51
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...consider why it probably fried: dead alternator bushings. They are worn out so the alternator jumps around constantly, which stresses the wire. Eventually, it breaks.

Bushings are cheap but this job is a bit of a PITA; I just did it a couple weeks ago because my wire broke, too. Consider also replacing the two hoses that connect to the heater control valve at the firewall because it's easy to do at the time.

If you DIY your own wire, make damn sure that the crimps are on there good and tight. My local shop stopped making their own because they were coming off occasionally. BTW, the Saab part is, gasp...$15!! Yup, $15 for 6 inches of wire.

When you put the replacement wire on, consider attaching it to the forward-most alternator mounting bolt instead of the one closer to the firewall; this is so you can more easily inspect the wire in the future.


Here are the instructions I used (thanks JohnK :-)

Re: hey friends...no crying allowed in Saab diy
Posted by JohnK (more from JohnK) on Fri, 25 Oct 2002 15:51:08
In Reply to: changing alternator bushings - how tough?, Bry M., Fri, 25 Oct 2002 14:52:31

It's not all that tough. Putting the belts back on when your tired at the end of the job is what I don't like!!!

1.) Remove A/C and Alternator belts

2.) Remove nut from alternator long mount bolt

3.) Flop alternator towards fender to get access to bottom A/C compressor mount bolt. Loosen but don't remove this bottom bolt.

Remove 2 allen bolts on upper A/C compressor mount. If these are bodged, use a very tight Vice Grip to loosen. Lift up A/C compressor and carefully set it on top of engine.

4.) Remove upper alternator mount bolt (are there 2, I forget?) and pivot alternator so that long bolt can be pulled out.

5.) Remove alternator and replace bushings

6.) Don't forget about the bushing at the bottom of the long alternator support bar down on the block.

7.) Why not throw in a water pump while the patient is open.

8.) Also a good time for putting in a new crank seal and oil pump seals if you have any leaks.

----------

I skipped 7 & 8. One thing I had problems with was putting the belts back on: make sure the each belt is in its proper slot on the crank pulley before slipping it onto the alternator pulley; I got the first belt on only to find it went from inner to outer and then had a bear of a time getting it off again.

Tighten everything back up on the loose side; better to err too loose than too tight, which is bad for bearings.

Do not use poly bushings; rubber only. The poly disintegrate. Get all four bushings: for the alternator and for the adjustment bracket.

posted by 63.224.56...


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