1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
If you have air in the line, the clutch will fully engage very close to the floor.
If you hold the pedal slightly off the floof and it does not engage at first, but gradually begins to engage by itself with no pedal movement, the problem is likely either the master or slave cylinder. A leaking slave will drip brake fluid out the inspection hole under the flywheel. If no leak, suspect the master.
If the clutch still fully engages near the top of the pedal travel, chances are the nasty clunks are caused by a bad pilot bearing or a rusty clutch shaft.
If you are lucky the problem is with the shaft. You can unfasten the cross wire holding the cover on the trans and unscrew the propeller and screw in a bolt. 8mm?? IIRC Use the head of the bolt to pry against and the shaft will pop out. Pull the shaft out as far as you can and squirt some PBlaster on the splines as far dwon the shaft as you can. This might solve the problem temporarily. I prefer using antiseize on the splines or a synth brake caliper grease, but to get that on it's better to have the clutch out to butter up the splines.
If the PBlaster doesn't stop the disk from dragging against the pressure plate, it's probably the pilot bearing. Time for a new clutch. When you install the clutch, do not bolt down the pressure plate until you have seated the clutch shaft in the pilot bearing. With the plate loose, you can move the disk so that the shaft is directly over the pilot bearing hole (you can feel when the shaft hits the center of the bearing). Then whack the shaft in and tighten the pressure plate.
If the clutch disk is not perfectly centered against the flywheel, whacking the clutch shaft to seat it, will damage the fragile pilot bearing and the crunch remains.
posted by 65.119.192...
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