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Brake light stuck on and killed my battery just now, for about the 12th time since I bought this piece of work of a car in March. Every time I said afterwards, "I'll have to get around to that. Meanwhile, I'll be careful to pull the pedal up with my toe when I park it." Yeah, right.
Wasn't eager to crawl around down there or to pull console and bolster to get at the area properly.
Well today I knelt-lay down on the ground to see what I could do. Couldn't go home yet as battery is still being charged back to some semblance of normal. ('Course it's ruined by all this, but it still works to start car well as long as it's summer.)
So, I found the switch area and its action, by a combination of listening (like bats' echo-location) and feeling (like a catfish's whiskers). And I find, there's a kind of bent metal tab that juts out off the pedal shaft and pushes the switch plunger, doing the switching action.
So I get my 8" adjustable wrench, jaws closed down to a slot, and, holding pedal down with one hand, got the jaws slipped over that tab, and bent it just a little, TOWARDS the switch plunger.
Then I checked the switching action, and whereas before, if I let up on the pedal slow and light, the switch sometimes stayed on, now it clicks off clean every time. And so I hope my dead-battery days are at an end.
So, I say, don't delay, fix yours the easy way today.
I actually think part of the problem may be, whatever lubrication there ever was on the pivot point of the brake pedal shaft has long since dried up, and so the return spring action is a little weaker.
If I DO have the bolster off for something, I'll get an oil can up in there and try to douse the swivel point and work it in. My little touchy-feely trip tells me it would be kind of a tough job with the bolster in the way tho.
posted by 64.222.246...
, Wed, 25 Jul 2007 18:01:36
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