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just finished doing a clutch. You are correct, this comes under the heading of "in for a penny in for a pound..."
Bearings go when they darn well please, you most likely don't know if things were all done together by the Previous Owner ( aka PO), unless it was you? The work or cost are really involved in getting the prep work done to swap the bits out, in fact I'd wager a guess that the prep and post clutch work amounts to about... oh, 75% of the work. The *only* bit that is not required to do to complete the clutch is removing the flywheel and have it resurfaced and removing it allows replacing the pilot bearing. if you don't remove FW then you can't (with any certainty or ease) replace the pilot bearing. Why would you do the pressure place and the clutch disk - which means you have a nice smooth surface on the PP side, the clutch disk both sides, and yet *not* on the the FW side? In order to pull the clutch out to inspect or replace bits, you have put the pressure plate, the disk, and the slave cylinder in the same position needed to *replace* all three. So, why not do them all?
The most difficult part, in my estimation, is getting the shroud off. Doing it correctly in both removal and installing correctly after... Meaning all of the screws, brackets, etc.
In order to do the job I recommend doing the following prep work to do the intermediate prep work... ha ha ha!
First disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (do you know the radio code???), then the positive terminal, and then remove the battery entirely. Be careful about any battery acid, either green or white crystals or liquid. All are permanent damage to the paint. Removing the battery allows access to several items that you need to remove.
HAVE A BIG CARDBOARD BOX ***AND*** a small one too. think shipping box and shoebox.
remove all of the intake tubing from the turbocharger to the intake manifold. You really should have the Bentley to do this, I'm pointing out the highlights and a couple of specifics I just did.
Next remove the drivers side fan (only) a T-20 (I think) takes the two top screws off the fan, reach down and disconnect the gray connector, the you can lean the fan away from the radiator and pull up. the lower attachment is a "U" over a screw and should slip straight up, set fan in the big box. put the screws/bolt/brackets in the small box.
across the tranmission the hot lead will be held in spring clips that keeps the cable in the air. Pull the cable out of the clips. You will need to remove *ALL* of these fittings, so the bolts need to come out. If you have a digital camera consider taking mass quantities of pictures showing all of these items. There are two at the junction of the plastic shroud, one on the drivers side of the engine, there is a 10mm head bolt at the top of the plastic shroud (know as PS from now on), there is a 10 mm head on the drivers of the PS- this one holds *another* bracket that is the cable bracket, this is a 12mm on the passengers side that holds the PS in place and there is a 10mm at right angles to the 12mm just mentioned (sounds funny but when you see it you will say, ah! that's what he meant). Once all of those are off, you need to flex the PS at the clutch slave and metal hose to work it around that. then a screwdriver at the bottom center of the PS will allow you to pry the PS up and over the front most part of the transmission, and you should be able to pull the PS up and over all of the metal and pull towards the radiator and then off. Now you need to borrow your buddy for a couple of minutes and use either the Saab tool or one you have made. The wire handle from a five gallon bucket works well here, you are making a circle with a tang on the end and forcing it around the slave cylinder and forcing it towards the outside ends of the spring loaded fingers of the pressure plate, your buddy should pump the clutch (I like three to five slow and complete strokes) to the floor, easy back to the top of the stroke, and down again 3-5 times and HOLD it there under penalty of death for releasing before your command, with the pedal in, the fingers on the PP will be pressed in and there should be a space on top of the outer ends of the PP fingers AND below the tangs of the PP, the idea is to force the wire or tool (which is a wire...) under those tangs such that when your buddy slowly releases the clutch pedal... the wire tool will *prevent* the clutch fingers in the PP from coming all the way up and hitting the inside outer edged of the PP. Basically you are blocking the fingers on the PP so that the PP remains as open as possible.
You will need a special tool here, a "flare" wrench. yes you can find the 13mm flare wrench alone, but consider getting the four (or five?) wrench set with it's holder, yet another $10 set of tools. You want to use the flare wrench to first remove the nipple fitting on the slave, and after it's been put in the small box, slip the end over the metal hose and slide down to the nipple on the slave from the pipe, and break it loose. At this point you can use a 13mm combination wrench, but always use the flare wrench first, if you do not use a flare wrench you have a great chance of rounding the fitting and then spending the rest of the day trying to get beyond that FU. Use the proper tool and smile!
There is a bracket on the transmission, it's a metal wire a bit thicker than a wire coat hanger and most definatly stronger, put a medium straight screwdriver under either the left or right side and flex the wire, it will slip off, put in small box, on the face under where the wire went is a metal cover with rubber gasket, at the top position is a tap that is bounded by metal "fences", put the same screwdriver just used down from the top under the tab to pop it out, yep small box!, reach in the opening and feel a plastic fitting that is a cross, unscrew it, small box, take one of the two bolts that you have in the small box that held the two clips for the positive cable out, it will thread into the fitting where you just removed the plastic cross. Now got to the slave cylinder, there are three bolts holding it to the transmission, remove, they are hex 5mm maybe? be SURE to wiggle, convince, and seat all the way into those hex bolts BEFORE you try to turn them. Don't let the streams cross, or round out the hex bolts... remove all three and put in small box. Now you may need a buddy, using a 13mm SIX POINT you can remove all six of the bolts that hold pressure plate to the flywheel, use a LARGE screwdriver for 1) lever using the nose of the starter as a fulcrum and the teeth of the flywheel to prevent the flywheel from turning as you loosen the 13mm bolts in the pressure plate. 2) use the same screwdriver to force via those same flywheel teeth the flywheel around to get all six of the bolts and retire bolts to... small box.
Now go back to the bolt you installed where the plastic cross came out. I have a multipurpose tool to do this, but you have to improvise, think about pulling nails with a hammer, you want to "pull the nail" of the bolt and that it's screwed into towards the radiator, take car and don't hurt the radiator. when the splined shaft is loose (finger loose) remove bolt, back in the shoebox, and continue pulling the shaft towards the radiator. It will stop and you are now down to the part that needs three hands!
You should have already removed the fitting from the slave, the six bolts from the pressure plate, the three allen head bolts from the clutch slave, the wire keeper for the cover, the cover, the plastic threaded cross, and put the bolt (temporarily) into the threads where the plastic cross was.
Now you want to move the bolt towards the radiator and bring the splined shaft with it, onces it's finger loose, remove the bolt and retire it to the small box, pull the shaft the rest of the way to radiator, and wrestle the slave and pressure plate (with the clutch disk under the PP and coming out at the same time) Put all of this in the big box. 17 mm bolts hold the PP on the crank, when you replace them they are 44 FT/lbs.
You need a bolt and a couple of large sockets to force the pilot bearing out of the PP, and rearrange those same sockets and the bolt to force the new pilog bearin in the PP. Take the PP to a machine shop to get it surfaced. NOTE! if you are doing this on a Saturday (like most of us) SOURCE YOUR MACHINE Shop a couple of DAYS BEFORE. Can you do a c900 flywheel? Are you open on Saturday, what time do you close and what is the latest time I can arrive with the FW to have it turned? How long does it take? and the dumbest but most important question of all , "will your machinist be there on Saturday?" As in, he isn't on vacation, sick, getting married or any other reason not there? Major bummer to not be able to finish because you can't get the flywheel turned. Consider having a second source machine shop too, same questions, different place!
Now put it all back together, should take about 10 or 15 minutes, right?
ALSO, other items I like to take off to allow more room to move while doing this. The airfilter box, remove the two T25's on the side that hold the intake there, a T-10 near the top of the AirBox holds the entire thing on the bracket, screws in the small box, rest in big box.
And, the intercooler is a single 10mm head nut, it goes in the small box, and the intercooler pulls straight up and goes into the big box. If you removed all of the air tubing this is a 15 second deal...
Enjoy and send any questions to me at the usual place thesaabguy cox.net
, Sun, 20 Jul 2008 08:55:55
, Sat, 19 Jul 2008 19:48:56
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