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Re: The oil light came on in my dash. Posted by Cmyles [Email] (#1126) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Cmyles) on Mon, 5 Dec 2011 17:16:14 In Reply to: The oil light came on in my dash., Darcey, Mon, 5 Dec 2011 13:03:53 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
You must be sure that you have good oil pressure before driving or revving the car. If the pressure relief valve has jammed, a common reason for the pressure to drop and the light to come on, the basic minimum oil pressure will be about 6PSI but won't rise any higher as the revs increase. The oil filter adapter housing is held on to the block with three 8mm bolts (12 mm hex heads) and has a paper gasket. It's easy to R&R if that's where the leak is. Watch for the oil cooler lines to be leaking either where they transition from rubber to steel pipe or where they fit into the adapter. Before fitting them into the adapter a small o'ring is placed on the pipe so be prepared to replace those. If they aren't on the end of the pipe they are often left behind in the adapter and can be removed with a small angled probe. If the hoses are leaking where they transition to pipe you can carefully slice off the ferrule and apply a small hose clamp or two if the hose is still respectable. Otherwise slice the ferrules off of both ends of the assembly and replace the hose (onto the short pipes) with SAE J1019 spec. Transmission cooler hose (3/8" as I recall) from any parts store and good hose clamps. The pipes have a bulge on them that secures the hose once the clamps are in place. That's about $200 cheaper than buying new cooler lines and lasts as long or longer (trust me).
Put a little thread sealant (not thread locker) on the sending unit thread before you screw it in and be sure it has a good sealing ring on it. The sending units can leak down the middle so you may have to replace that too. Those are available from site sponsors.
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