1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
This happens at every startâ¦â¦â¦â¦As I said in an earlier post i have isolated my poor running problem to #3 missing due to spark cutting out with a warm/hot engine. the car starts fine and idles fine (about 5 minutes) until it gets warm (indicator needle starting into the green). then, it starts missing and runs rougher and rougher as the engine gets hotter. i found the lack of spark at #3 by putting my timing light on each of the different plug wires and watching the signal. The signal at #3 is very slow and erratic w/ a hot engine. I ALSO NOTICED THAT UNTIL THE ENGINE IS WARM/HOT THE SPARK APPEARS NORMAL AT ALL PLUG WIRES, AND THE TIMING IS AT 14 BTDC. BUT, WHEN THE SPARK STARTS BREAKING UP AT #3, THE TIMING RETARDS TO ABOUT 7 BTDC AND STAYS STEADILY THERE UNTIL I SHUT THE CAR OFF AND RESTART W/ A COOL ENGINE. NOTE WHEN THESE SYMPTOMS ARE OCCURRING I CANNOT GET THE TIMING TO ADVANCE BACK TO 14 BY TURNING THE DISTRIBUTOR AS THE CAR WILL DIE BEFORE TIMING IS CORRECTED. Note that the engine is IDLING at normal operating temp and the dist clamp is tight when the timing âself advancesâ to 7 BTDC.
So my questions are: why is the timing advancing (self adjusting-jumping to 7 BTDC) due to the lack of spark at #3 with a hot engine? Could a bad hall sensor only affect the spark at one cylinder and how is this possible? I realize that heat causes an increase in resistance, and electrical components are affected by heat, but how is it that the spark at #3 is the only cylinder affected?
Again, i have swapped the coil, ignition amp, ezk box, cap, plugs, wires, rotor. i am confident these are not the issue. I HAVE ALSO DOUBLE CHECKED THE CAM TIMIMG (marks) by removing the valve cover. THE CHAIN IS STRETCHED SLIGHTLY AS THE PLUNGER IS EXTENDED 12MM (1mm over tolerance) but I canât believe this small amount of stretch is the issue. Thanks again!
posted by 166.248.19...
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