1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Heated seat not working, please help! Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:47:53
In Reply to: Heated seat not working, please help!, Richard, Mon, 16 Dec 2002 04:18:39 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
First off, if you haven't already, check Quasi's site for info on the heated seats.
A few things you can do - you can swap the driver's seat controller for the passenger's - they're identical. That would help isolate the problem to the controller.
You said that there was no power under the seat - did you do this with the seat connected into the harness, or with the seat connector disconnected from the harness? With the connectors disconnected (under the seat), the 'car' side of the harness should have (1) power at the hot side (usually yellow) with the seat controller on, and (2) GROUND at the black wires.
How the seat works - there is a thermistor (temperature sensor) in the seat, along with the heating element. The sensor and element share a ground wire. The 'high' sides of the sensor and heating element go to the controller. If the seat temperature is below the setting of the switch, a relay in the controller closes, and puts 12 volts to the heating element. When the seat warms up above the setting, the controller opens the relay. So it's quite normal to hear a clicking in the controller as you go from below the set point to above. If the seat is at temperature "1" and you set it to "3" it may click. Why 'may'? Because if the relay is already closed to supply heat to warm the seat, it won't close any more for a warmer temp.
Things to do -
==Swap driver's for passenger's controller- try isolating it to the controller
==With the connector under the seat ATTACHED, measure the voltage to ground of the high side (usually yellow), and the LOW side - black - with a cold seat and the controller set to 3. You should see around 12-13 volts on the high side, and 0 to 0.1 volts(max)on the ground. Why with the seat attached? If you have a bad connection, it may show fine with no load (unattached), but once you put a load on it, a poor connection looks like an open. So if you aren't getting 12-13 volts at the high side, make sure the connections between the controller and seat are OK. If you get 12-13 volts on the high side, but see 5 or 12 volts on the Ground, then you've got a bad ground.
I'll bet that when you swap the controllers left to right, the problem follows the controller. What's more, I'll bet there's a good chance that the problem is the contacts on the relay inside the controller are dirty and pitted - open the controller, and clean the contacts with some fine sandpaper.
Good luck!
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:47:53 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 16 Dec 2002 12:14:14
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
