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It seems that DIs are binary Posted by Bill Homer [Email] (#3427) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Bill Homer) on Mon, 10 Nov 2008 10:01:23 In Reply to: Could the symptoms be a bad DI?, Rob Randall, Sun, 9 Nov 2008 10:44:55 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
They either work or they don't. The fact that your car started initially makes me doubt tha the DI is faulty, but I'm curious what you find when swapping in a spare.
Other things to try:
1. Your car has OBD-II fault diagnosis, and here's where it's really useful. Any standard OBD-II reader will give you an indication of what the ECU thinks is faulty; since the "Check Engine" light is flashing, there is a fault recorded. You need to either take you car to a large autoparts store that has a reader or rent/borrow one; some stores such as Murray's (part of the Checker/Schuck's/Kragen/Murray's chain) will "sell" you a reader and refund your money when you return it.
2. Look for obvious vacuum leaks, particularly on the three hoses behind the engine. Your car is 10 - 11 years old, it's hot in there, rubber breaks down. The initial rich mixture programmed by the ECU for cold starts may start the car, but when it gets warmed up the vacuum leak makes it stall.
3. Bad temperatature sensor between the second and third intake runners or a corroded connector that needs to be "exercised". If the ECU doesn't know the proper temperature, it can't program the proper amount of fuel. Do a search to find the proper resistance readings vs. temperature.
posted by 63.87.52...
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