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Hello all, I was a regular here till I let the power co. shut off the building where I had my internet connection.
My '96 9000 has been the regular car of my mom, who's 91 and half deaf.
It seems, she drove it with the oil low and didn't notice that it was in trouble. I got in it to move it one day and found the engine rapping. I don't think it's a valve tick, seems deeper, and even after I topped the oil up (was over 2 quarts down) the rap is still there. Car has stayed parked since this disaster turned up, tho I have started it a few times.
My questions are three:
1. Can I drop the pan on this motor without pulling it?
2. Where might the oil be coming from? My suspects are the pan to block seam, or something to do with the oil pump-oil filter area, as I fixed the front seal and I can't see that it's coming from there any more. It has had a bad oil leak since I got it. I did the front main seal right off and I believe that is not now leaking but there's still a fair amount leaking down low, near that end of the motor, and I can't perceive a clear source. It's dripping down onto the drive shaft, spinning out all over the inside of the passenger side wheel, dripping down onto and thoroly coating the A-arm.
3. WHY is the low-oil-pressure warning light on the car not working? I never noticed this till the motor tick started, but it might have been going on for a long time. I finally found the sender, on back of block near the end of the starter motor, and can feel that it does have a wire plugged onto its spade lug. But the wire and its plastic wire loom are both heat-hardened, and it's heck to get in there, just jam your arm down from above on passenger side, no watch band on that arm. I haven't investigated yet to see if it's a corroded lug or push-on, a cut or cracked wire somewhere, or what. Burnt out dash bulb doesn't seem likely, it runs so rarely. Is this problematic with 9000s? If so, other drivers beware. The light on dash should come on with key on, out after engine starts. It's on far right along bottom, next to the ABS light, I discover, but if it hasn't been working or never worked since we got the car, I don't know, as till now I never had reason to suspect it or look for it.
So, if I can in fact pull the oil pan I'd pull rod bearing caps to find out if I do have a bad bearing. I had a VW Rabbit once that had a bad rod rap, and dropped pan, pulled the rod cap, found the bearing metal pounded away to the copper of the shell; crank looked and felt like new. I bought and installed a new set of brgs. from JC Whitney and drove the car troublefree for like another 100K miles till the floor rusted thru. Hoping for a similar outcome.
Posting this from public library. Hope for lots of answers and opinions and will check back, maybe first chance will be Tuesday eve.
The pan has Torx-head bolts all around, and all look accessible but the front seal end of it is up over the subframe and I'm not sure there's room enough to drop it clear off.
Take it away.
posted by 169.244.143...
, Sun, 18 Oct 2009 09:07:17
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