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Re: Alzheimer's door locks! Posted by sam96CS [Email] (#852) [Profile/Gallery] (more from sam96CS) on Sun, 11 Nov 2012 20:00:36 In Reply to: Alzheimer's door locks!, Noel, Sun, 11 Nov 2012 18:24:08 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
What about the response to the keyfob and to the console switch? Ari posted that if these work then the controller is okay. If you operate the console switch and one or more locks always respond, then the lock controller and the console switch are both ok.
The controller was value engineered in '95 and up with weaker relays. If you decide to replace, then get one from a '93 or '94 9000. The interior circuit board should be labeled as a Kiekert 5359-03. Do NOT get a '92 or earlier controller because the wiring harnesses are not the same.
The time to suspect the controller is when nothing ever responds to either a key in the door or the console switch or the keyfob.
The front doors have microswitches operated by the lock tumbler. A microswitch can have two failure modes. One mode is complete failure, which means it will neither lock or unlock any of the other doors, probably due to a broken toggle on the microswitch. The other failure mode is when the microswitch will work in one direction only. I had one on my passenger door that would lock the doors but not unlock them. The microswitch had a good toggle, but something inside the switch was broken. You have to remove the door handle to access the microswitch. You can test it with a multimeter without removing the handle. Three wires exit the microswitch that are wrapped in a protective white sheath. The red and black wires send the "unlock" signal. The yellow and black wires send the "lock" signal. To test the unlock signal, check resistance between black and red with the key held in the lock position. It is good if the resistance is low, say 2.6 ~ 4.0 ohms. Now connect the probes to the black and yellow wires with the key held in the lock position. Resistance should be low. If you get high or infinite resistance, then replace the microswitch. The microswitches are not identical because they have to work in opposite key turn directions. So if for example your passenger door microswitch is broken, then replace it with a passenger door microswitch, not with a drivers door microswitch. I paid about $20 for a used one recently.
If the evidence points to the lock controller, then here is a procedure for working on it:
00. First check that the fuse 16 for the central locks is good. This fuse also powers the interior lights. If the lights work, then the fuse is good. Remove this fuse before disconnecting the controller. Also remove fuses 19 and 22 so that the controller will be completely unpowered. Removing these fuses also disables the alarm system.
01. Under the dash on the driver's side, remove the cardboard piece wrapped in black carpet that is held in place with 4 button fasteners. To remove a button fastener, force a small jeweler's screwdriver alongside the central pin and use the screwdriver to pry the head of the pin out about 1/8". You don't pry as much as force in the screwdriver, which makes the pin pop out a little. This is a PITA. Use needle nose pliers to pull the pin all the way out and then the button fastener. Some owners remove the cardboard piece permanently because it is not essential and impairs access. Others replace it but secure it with only a couple of the pins. The 1990 and earlier model years had an earlier generation of fasteners that used philips head screws and will work on a '96 - much easier to use.
02. The controller is a black plastic box that is about 4-1/2" x 2" x 1-1/4" thick. It is held by a metal spring clip. The clip is oriented with the open end facing the driver's seat. The controller is oriented with the harness towards the brake pedal. Slide off the clip. Pull off the electrical harness. The harness is keyed so it can only be installed the correct way. The controller is SAAB part 4102851. It is made by Kiekert and is also marked D6 and 40505359.
03. Use a small screwdriver to scrape the corrosion (looks white) off of the electrical prongs that contact the harness. Wedge a knife between the two tabs and tab retainers that hold the board inside the plastic case. Pry out with a small screwdriver, hopefully without breaking any tab retainers.
04. Reflow the solder at the 6 pins that hold the two relays to the board. Also reflow the 6 pins located below the relay pins, the bottom 4 relate to the coil and the middle two are related to the relay. The relays are Siemens part number V23083-C1002-A303, and they're also marked, GN6ME. Each has 6 soldered pins. The solder is covered with a brass-colored resin that must be scraped off with a pocket knife before reflowing. The pins won't necessarily look like they need to be reflowed. Reflow them anyway because the heat may reflow connections inside the relays that you can't see. See excellent pictures of the pins and procedure at http://www.flickr.com/photos/16008566@N08/sets/72157622661841017/
05. Reassemble the controller and reinstall it (see step 02 above for the orientations of the controller and clip). Insert the 15A fuses at #16, #19 and #22. The controller should work now even though the reflowing doesn't seem to change anything. If it works, then install the carpeted kick panel if you wish. Go to step 06 if still no joy.
06. Reflow the solder joints that correspond with the connector pins. Go back to step 05.
For more info and insight, check out RayF's writeup. See link below.
I posted less than a year ago the pinout of the lock controller. I can repost it if you can't find it.
Good luck. I had mine working for several months, but today the right rear actuator stopped working. This is the same door lock that I "fixed" 3 years ago. So annoying.
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