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Re: 89 9000, pulling pass wheel well, gaskets to replace? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 19 Oct 2000 12:48:50
In Reply to: 89 9000, pulling pass wheel well, gaskets to replace?, chad, Wed, 18 Oct 2000 21:20:32 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Four locations come to mind when there's oil leaking from the belt end of the engine. The two most common (in my experience) are the main crank seal and the oil pump O-ring. Third is the oil pressure sensor, and last and least common is the timing chain cover.
It's good the timing chain cover is least likely, because it is a major pain to replace the gasket. It's not an afternoon job for the casual mechanic.
The oil pressure sensor can be hard or easy. On my '88's there is some extra plumbing that makes access near impossible. Others have been able to get to it with no problem.
Most common is the main seal and oil pump O ring. The oil pump is bolted to the timing chain cover with the crankshaft poking right through the center. The main seal is in the oil pump, and the O ring seals the back of the oil pump to the timing chain cover. To do the main seal, you do need to remove the belts and the main pulley. I've had no problems removing the main pulley - I use the Townsend trick of loosening the bolt with the starter motor (more info upon request) - It's a little scary, but works well. With the bolt out, the pulley just comes off. With the pulley off, replacing the main seal is a 5 minute job. However, I would replace the oil pump O ring while I was in there - It's only a few more bolts, and you don't want to go back in after two months when the O-ring starts to leak.
It takes me about 20 minutes to remove the fender inner liner (that includes jacking up and supporting the car and removing the tire). Removing the belts and main pulley is about another 30 - 45 minutes, depending on how stubborn things are. Add an hour for the oil pump if it's your first time. About another 45 minutes to reassemble everything.
You might be able to buy the main seal and O ring at Pep Boys. It's not too expensive from the dealer (maybe about $10 and $5 respectively). I get them for less at the mail order places that support this BB - see the bottom of the page. I've always had good luck with Sobstory.
With the inner liner removed, look around. Are the belts in good shape? Now is a great time to replace them. Just make notes as to which groove the AC pulley is in, that sort of thing. Take off the belts and spin the idler pulleys - do they run smooth? If not replace them. Here I definately recommend mail order - The dealer will hit you for $70 on an idler pulley you can get for under $20 mail order.
Spin the alternator to check the bearings. Inspect the drip hole of the water pump - if it's on its way out, you'll see the telltale trace of coolant (or the white trail of dried coolant) that indicates a shot seal long before you'll get a drip on the ground. Check the front and rear passenger side engine mounts. Is the rubber in good shape and uncracked? If it's badly cracked, it may be time for new mounts.
I pulled an inner liner to check and oil leak (main seal), and ended up replacing not only the O-ring, but the belts, an idler pulley, and the motor mounts. But the car is MUCH happier for it, and I'm happier for having done it.
Good luck!
, Thu, 19 Oct 2000 12:48:50 <-- Viewing This Message
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