1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
There are more ways than one to skin this particular cat. Here is what I think the most straightforward:
For the oil, your replacement from the original setup has either an electric sender (wire from oil pressure sender tap at lower right side toward front of engine to the gauge) or a direct-reading pressure gauge plumbed with a small plastic or copper tube to the gauge (if plastic, replace with copper). Which style you now have does not matter; you just need to add a brass plumbing tee at the engine to plumb in an oil pressure switch (not sender for a gauge, but switch for a light) with 1/8" pipe threads to fit your tee. These switches were fmade for vehicles with lights not gauges, a cooperative parts guy can help you identify one. Wire the switch to control a light, buzzer, or whatever.
Similarly for the temp, you need to identify a switch that closes (turns on) at your chosen temperature, maybe 201-220F, and plumb it into the cooling system. The tee solution does not apply here because the switch needs to be in the coolant flow. A copper plumbing tee spliced into the upper radiator hose may be the easiest way. Such switches are typically used to control radiator fans, but some older vehicles with idiot lights used them for your purpose. Again you will need a cooperative parts guy to haul out the catalog with specs on all those switches, to choose one with an appropriate temp switching poiint and threads you can adapt to a copper tee--probably 1/4" or 3/8" NPT.
Voltage indication is a little trickier, but less critical to have that kind of warning for. High temp or low oil pressure can toast your engine in a hurry. Get the first two finished and we can take up the other.
Ask back with further questions.
posted by 71.134.4...
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