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, Tue, 11 Mar 2008 17:04:24
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Hey folks,
A number of years ago (20) I re-built a 96 transaxle for one of my Sonetts. My only experience with rebuilding transmissions prior to the Saab was about 20 years earlier (4 x 4 Jeep Wagoneer). I pulled a few hairs out and swore about the same amount, although for different reasons, on each rebuild. A few things I learned when I rebuilt the Saab transaxle are:
1) at the time I required both the Saab and the Haynes Manual as both had important info that the other did not
2) the scincro ring(s) is cone shaped (inside surface) and there are groves/raised surfaces (like an old record but alot wider and deeper. Upon removal of the top cover (note that the shifter pins do not sit in the round holes of the shifter yoke) if there is no gap (you can push the scincro ring up against the adjacent steel gear) then it is worn out. See the pictures of the scincro rings in a previous posting
3) when dissmantling take notes and use a digital camera to help in your success
4) do not remove the freewheel bearing! (remember I talked about hair and swearing) Although your manual may state this is the next step and talk about an elastic band being used to hold it together. YFI there were two types of freewheel bearings used (they act as a centrifugal clutch) The early style had 6 rollers and the later had 10 rollers. Sitting behind each roller in the bearing are two holes. Each hole has a spring which pushs against a steel pin and the pin is forced against the roller when the freewheel bearing has no centrifugal force on it. So if you have a 10 roller freewheel (like I had when I did mine) and you do not have the proper tool to remove it, as you gently turn and slide it out (I was in my kitchen) it will fly apart due to those 20 tiny springs. You will now be looking for the 20 tiny pins the springs shot out and the 20 tiny springs as well!!! After I had retrived everything I had to make up a tool to reinstall the $*#! (+ more hair pulling) but I succeeded! There is still a bounty out on the writer of that step.
5)for the end cover nuts (pinion etc.)use new lock tab washers, apply an anti-seize lube between the surfaces of the washers and nuts prior to torquing to get them torqued correctly. Remember to bend the tab of the lock washer when you are satisfied that everything is correct.
6)in my opinion setting the backlash is very important you don't want to be doing this again. Although I had problems obtaining a set of proper shims and had to have some made and hardened I set the backlash of the ring and pinion as close to factory as I could.
I was a member of the New England Sonett Club (now Vintage Saab Club of North America) and was able as a member to borrow the jig and most of the tools required. I did have a copy of the jig but I sold it. I can give some advice on how to build one if anyone is interested.
Regards,
Jim
posted by 24.66.161...
, Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:43:35, Wed, 12 Mar 2008 17:27:27, Thu, 13 Mar 2008 06:37:26, Tue, 11 Mar 2008 17:04:24, Wed, 12 Mar 2008 05:35:29
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