1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Every time that I had to pass emissions with my '78 99L in Connecticut, I would run the car down to an almost empty gas tank and add a bottle of "drygas" (alcohol). I usually slightly leaned out the mixture adjustment, too. The only time that it did not pass was when I had richened the mixture and forgot to lean it again. I also used to go early in the morning to a station out in the country.
I have a '75 99 4-dr that had California emission controls on it. There was no catalyst, but it had an air pump and injection tubes as well as an EGR valve. Eventually the air pump failed and I dismantled the air injection, since it is not a Federal requirement. Federal cars did not have these pieces and the '75 99 factory service manual (first year for CIS) that I have does not even list the California emission mods. I'm not sure what was on the '76 California cars. I have a '77 99 that I am stripping for parts that has the same pulse air injection that was fitted to the federal '79 900 GLE that my ex-wife and I had. The two '78 99L sedans that I have had both had the California emissions system consisting of lambda-sond with catalytic converter, despite the fact that one of those cars was purchased new in Connecticut. If you can find all of the parts, the Lambda/catalyst system would actually be a relatively easy conversion to make as the wire loom between the lambda box and the injection system is a seperate harness from the other engine compartment wires.
I agree with whoever it was that stated that there has to be something more wrong with the car than some fuel system misadjustment or worn part. A properly running engine should not have high HC emissions. Just because the engine was rebuilt doesn't mean that there is not a mechanical failure. Have you done a compression test recently and are the readings within 10% of each other? Have you tested the cooling system for exhaust gases that would indicate a blown head gasket or cracked head (NAPA sells a kit for this)? Was the head new or just reconditioned (could have an invisible crack under #2 or #3 exhaust valve seat)? Have you adjusted the valves since the rebuild? Is the distributor shaft worn and changing the dwell (and therefore the timing)? (A quick check for this is to put a dwell meter on the ignition and rev the engine. If the dwell changes your distributor shaft is worn. Also, take ahold of the distributor rotor and try moving it sideways; it shouldn't move that way.) The fuel system should be the *last* thing that you start changing parts on. Make sure that the mechanicals are up to specs, then the ignition/electrical system.
Only after those are correct should you be changing fuel system parts. How much mileage is on the car? Is the fuel distributor the original one? The fuel distributor orifices will enlarge over the long term from the fuel going through it eroding the sides of the openings. The same thing happens to the jets in an old carb.
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