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I replaced my right wheel bearing and axle carrier bearing over the weekend. I have the following notes to help anyone that might try this.
Wheel bearing.
Let me start off by saying you need a hydraulic press (mine is a 12 ton HF model) and a pretty seriously strong set of snap ring pliers.
-Remove the complete strut tower from the car as you would to replace the struts. (no spring disassembly is needed contrary to the Alldata guide)
-Setup the press to remove the hub was challenging due to the hub was wider than the base plates of my press. I ended up setting up using 2X6 blocks of wood to get the space needed to press out the hub from the strut assembly. Having a 2nd person to hold the heavy strut tower at the press is mandatory while I setup the press for the removal of the hub. I use a ¾” set of sockets as press aids. I found a socket that just fit the inside of the hub and used this to press out the hub from the strut tower. The socket’s outer diameter must be slightly smaller than the outer of the hub or you will get it stuck in the bearing. Upon pressing out the hub the outside race fell apart from the stress of the press and pushing in a direction it was not designed. This is why the bearing has a split inside race due to one side of the bearing take the force from one direction and the other side takes the force from the other. Pressing out the hub is a non designed movement and will fail any bearing.
-Remove both snap rings and these things have a lot of pressure to them and you need a serious snap ring tool. I also recommend using new snap rings to go back together with. I then laid the wheel side down on the press and setup my plates to push the bearing out. I always lay a cupped towel in between the press bases to “catch” the flying bearing because they bounce off of concrete quit well when they press out with force. I used the very largest socket in my ¾” set of sockets and it did not contact the outer race of the bearing but it pushed it out.
-I used 400 wet sandpaper to clean up the inside bore of the strut tower with water. I then dried it all off and used a thin coating of moly grease to lube up the bearing and bore and installed the outer side (wheel) new snap ring and placed the strut tower back on the press with the outside side wheel side down. I position the new bearing and used the old bearing as the press aid (kept this in my “press aid” box I have started for future use) with a flat piece of ½” 4”X4” plate steel on top and pressed the bearing in until it bottomed against the snap ring. Please note the old bearing “press aid” will be easy to remove due to the design of the bore. Install the inner new snap ring.
-Now for the tricky part. You must press the hub on supporting only the inner race of the bearing or you will destroy the $50 plus dollar bearing. I found a socket in my trusty ¾’ set that just fit the inner race and since the hub does not come all the way through the bearing it will not get caught in the 6 sided inside of the socket. I placed the hub (sanded and moly greased it and the inner race of the bearing) on a press plate with the wheel side down and bearing side up and then placed the strut assembly on top (wheel side down) and then my socket that fits the INNER RACE ONLY and easily pressed the bearing onto the hub with no damage or stress to the races of the bearing.
I reassembled the car and all is well. I will try to continue my write up of the axle carrier bearing when I get some time. I hope this helps anyone thinking of doing a wheel bearing. Please remember PRESS THE BEARING IN THE STRUT TOWER CONTACTING THE OUTER RACE ONLY AND PRESS THE HUB ONTO THE BEARING USING THE INNER RACE ONLY AND DO NOT CONTACT THE SEALS ON THE SIDE WITH EITHER PROCESS.
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