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no one explained how to adapt it...here goes....
Hope this helps someone.
'01 cavalier pump used. ~$40 (it’s not the electronic variable assist one).
You will need to remove the approx 1/2" metal tube spigot from the worn pump. The spigot does not come with the new pump. The spigot is pressed very tightly into the pump housing. After removing the old pump, and draining the remainder of p/s fluid inside (by turning the pulley), propane torch was used to heat the pump housing. (Do not do this inside!) Any remaining fluid in the pump will burn. Then using pliers, channel-locks or vise grips hold the spigot, above the ground. Tap pump housing lightly to remove the spigot.
To install the old spigot onto the new pump, lubricate the spigot with p/s fluid, and lightly tap the spigot into the new pump housing, until it is fully seated. I installed a new o-ring (which was included with the new pump) around the spigot using a small screwdriver. Do not think the o-ring is really necessary, but did so anyway.
Run a tap through the third bolt on the new pump to remove excess paint before install. The original bolt turned slowly in and out will work for this if necessary, if you do not own taps.
I did not change the flow control valve, from the old pump to the new pump. The holes looked the same diameter. The pump works fine without changing this out.
The old pulley can be removed from the old pump, and installed on the new pump for no cost at the auto parts store. Or you can buy a pulley remover kit for $13 if you want to do this yourself. I choose not to use a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller, or a wedge and hammer for fear of damaging or bending the pulley.
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Note on flushing the out the old p/s fluid:
Flush the old fluid out of the system, before the new pump is installed.
Use of a turkey baster or hand lotion pump and remove all the fluid you can from the reservoir. Put rags under the res. Remove the two hoses from the res. Cut about 3/4" inch off from the smaller bottom hose. Find a bolt, cork or whatever that fits the inside of this small cut off piece. Replace the small, corked piece on to the bottom spigot of the reservoir. Replace and clamp the large hose onto the res.
I used an old bicycle inner tube cut in two to place around the unattached smaller hose; the inner tube was led to a drain pan under the car.
Buy at least 2- 1/2 quarts of p/s fluid to flush out the old fluid. The fluid is poured into the reservoir while the car is running, turning the wheels right and left, until the fluid runs clear. It took 2-1/2 quarts before the fluid ran clear. In my opinion, it would by silly not to flush the system thoroughly. If your rack is worn or on the way out, a p/s filter can be added for as little $2 to catch metal particles, before they damage your new pump. Better inline filters can be had for about $15 dollars, which have a magnet as well.
Note on fluid. The new pump came with a small amount of fluid in the pump. This fluid was red, resembling trans fluid. The original synthetic pentosin fluid is not compatible with mineral based fluids. I choose not to use pentosin fluid with the new pump. At $21 a liter, the flush and fill would have gotten quite expensive for a total of just over 3 and a 1/2 quarts, since the refill, took just over a quart.
I used valvoline p/s fluid to flush, and prestone p/s for refill. Both fluids used are mineral oil based and do not include ingredients for seal sweller/high mileage in their formulas. The valvoline has better viscosity index than the prestone, but I did not feel like driving across town to go to the only parts store in the area to carry it.
posted by 74.78.243...
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