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Some folks like the holes because you can see them. Dimples and slots don't go all the way through, so the rotors is much less prone to cracking. With drilling, the thermal mass is reduced and higher temperatures will result.
All rotors are cast iron. These days all rotors are mass produced on automated NC machines which produce accurate machining.
I have not seen any evidence that after market rotors are in any way inferior to OEM rotors. I expect that you will find that OEM rotors are farmed out to suppliers and are not made by the OEM gods.
Drilled, slotted and dimpled rotors can make noise and these do acccelerate pad wear. For non competion driving, these modified rotors may have very little or no performance benefit. You have to get the rotors and pads so hot that the outgassing of the pads would make the pads float on plain rotors. (Pad fade) The reduced surface area of these rotors might reduce braking performance in day to day driving. This to my experience might be quite significant on the NG900s which have marginal braking capacity.
EBC pads will reduce dust and will last longer than OEM pads and will not trash the rotors like the current OEM pads.
EBC pads can have really poor grip until they are seasoned. Don't go into unpredicatable traffic with un-seasoned EBC pads. The EBC's on my 95SET were quite scarey at first. With my 9-5 Aero, there is so much braking capacity that this effect was not very pronounced.
New pads will make the brakes feel spongy until the pad surface is consolidated and the pad bedded in. This is especially true with a new pad on a worn rotor that was not machined. For this reason, you might want to avoid changing the front and rear pads a the same time.
When you change pads, you will be pumping the pads up to the rotors. Be sure to do this before driving! When doing this or when bleeding the brakes, do not pump the petal to the floor, as deposits in the unswept portion of the master cylinder can easily tear at the edges of the rubber piston cups and the master cylinder can be going down hill soon after that. I put a piece of 2x4 behind the petal to limit travel.
Many times reports of warped rotors are the result of uneven transfer of organic material from the pads to the rotors. This is often the result of inadequate pad bedding in or seasoning. The pad and rotor manufacturers are very much to blame for not producing adequate bedding in instructions. These 'warped' rotors are very often not really warped, but the deposits make things feel that way. Remachining removed the deposits and things feel smooth after that and this reenforces the though that the rotor was at fault. There were some 'EBC pads warped my rotors' posts around a year ago.
See the link. This is how I season EBC pads, but I definately do not go to the extreme suggested in those webpages. With the 95SET I braked repeatedly until I started to get good grip. The grip will be excellent and will level off a bit over time after that. I did things this way before I had knowledge of the linked info... just my gut instinct. I never saw the logic of babying new brake components, I just worked them hard till they worked right. The key is to not clamp pads against a hot rotor. Ease up at the end of a hard brake run before a dead stop if conditions allow.
posted by 208.24.179...
, Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:26:47
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