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Re: Snowmobile, Dinitrol and Noxudol might help?.... Posted by Snowmobile [Email]  (#686)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Snowmobile) on Sat, 16 Nov 2013 18:13:41
In Reply to: Snowmobile, Dinitrol and Noxudol might help?...., Baggsly  [Profile/Gallery]
, Sat, 16 Nov 2013 10:27:55
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I hadn't heard of those. They look like they are mostly wax based products but a few oil based also... There are many rust prevention products. Our winter beater has had a variety of them over the years, first Rust Check, then other types, then when I got it Krown and then Rust Check again... the other car has only had rust check... both lived in very harsh environments... There's other brands of commercial rust proofing here also: Metropolitan, there's some sort of Pro-cote or something (I forget the name), and there are others... Krown and Rustcheck are the big names, that's all...
What I've found is a lot of it depends on the application quality. I'm sure if one did a really good job spraying used motor oil it would be as good or better than a so-so application of the best commercial product. I think the key is to get a thin creeping oil inside every cavity on an annual basis. Oil displaces moisture and then protects against new moisture. The only places that rusted on the winter beater are where cavities were not sprayed adequately. Under the car, the thick stuff is great. But that car got thick stuff everywhere, and not sprayed in the panels as much (or as well anyway - there was no drilling done and the rear fenders were bone dry inside before I sprayed them with rustcheck creeping stuff)... The red one has only had the thin stuff sprayed in cavities and it is remarkably clean for a winter car here. Again, the only problem areas are spots that weren't sprayed (eg that motor mount bracket elsewhere in this thread).
I like the oil based products because they are good at displacing moisture. I don't really have much experience with waxes, except, that on bikes, lots of people like wax based chain lubes because they are clean, but I prefer oil based lubes (I actually mostly use chainsaw oil nowadays). Oil protects the chain against rust whereas the wax lasts only a ride or 2 tops... true one should clean and relube a chain every ride, but I like that the oil holds up better if for some reason I am remiss. (Can you tell I'm a mtb'er not a roadie?)... anyway, for cars, the oil makes them really messy (especially the thick stuff) but it seems to work well. The other downside besides the mess is that rubber parts exposed to oil can become soft, so I've had issues with eg the seals on the fender turn signals melting - they're pretty cheap to replace but one could pull them (makes a good hole to spray in) and then wipe so the seal doesn't see oil... wax applications might be cleaner.
Most of my rust repair work lately has been the floors in the winter beater... and there, they rust from the inside out... there is really nothing you can do! It is a situation of poor moisture design: when you build a house, the insulation must either dry to the inside or outside. 2 vapour barriers is a cardinal sin! The c9oo floor is metal (vapour barrier), covered in a bitumous type layer (vapour barrier?), covered in a sponge, covered in rubber (vapour barrier), covered in carpet, covered in rubber floormat (vapour barrier)... so after 2 months of this car sitting idle in a garage I pull the carpets and the sponge was so wet I could wring water out of it. Nowhere for the moisture to go! I POR'ed and fibreglassed it, so now it is basically a boat hull... it was the easy way out vs welding a new floor in... photo below is after the repairs... black areas were rusty and now POR'ed. biggest hole was about a fist. Most was still pretty solid thankfully! Lots of loose surface rust though under the bitumous layer...
, Wed, 13 Nov 2013 07:25:49, Sat, 16 Nov 2013 08:47:48, Sat, 16 Nov 2013 10:27:55, Sat, 16 Nov 2013 18:13:41 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 13 Nov 2013 10:07:33, Wed, 13 Nov 2013 08:32:35, Wed, 13 Nov 2013 18:19:43, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 09:18:15, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 10:20:40, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 17:00:28, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:23:01, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:15:20, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:24:44, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 03:50:33, Thu, 14 Nov 2013 20:30:53, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 06:19:30, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 07:32:49, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 12:57:26, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 13:42:55, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 15:06:24, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 09:46:55, Fri, 15 Nov 2013 11:00:18
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