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I hope the following instruction will be of some help to those with non functioning door locks. It is written from memory as it is three years since I repaired the locks but it should not be too far off.
1 Remove the lock cylinder assembly from the fiberglass door skin. This can be done after only removing the inner door upholstery, but may be easier if the screws holding the lock mechanism is loosened and a couple of rivets holding the skin are drilled out. After screw 13, according to the parts catalogue, is removed the lever, 9, can be removed. The lock cylinder assembly should now pop out of the main sleeve together with the spring, 5.
2 Remove the chromed sleeve. This is the most difficult part as they are often corroded. Try leaving the lock cylinder in WD40 or something similar a few days before trying to disassemble. If the sleeve is difficult to remove, first remove the lid that covers the keyhole, the pin and spring are only pressed into the front of the cylinder and can easily be levered out. A hole slightly larger than the cylinder but smaller than the sleeve should be drilled in a steel block. By placing the cylinder in the hole and gently tapping, the push button with sleeve, with a hammer the chromed sleeve should slide off.
3 You should now see the hole and catch pin holding the cylinder in place. If the key can be turned turn it 35¢ª to the right, this should allow the catch pin to be pressed in and the lock cylinder to be removed. If you cannot turn the key and force the catch pin in you will damage the lock. Try instead to drill out or grind down the pin so that the lock cylinder can be removed. A new lock pin is easy to make or the cylinder can be locked in place using a grub screw (Allen key). Observe how the push button with sleeve is assembled as the insert can be assembled to make it fit the left or right hand door.
4 Carefully remove the locking ring from the back of the lock cylinder. The outer sleeve can now be pulled back, do this very slowly as this will release the small springs and pins that press against the key. For each groove in the key, there should be one spring and two pins. The pin closest to the spring is flat at both ends and the pin touching the key is rounded towards the key and the other end is flat. After all the pins are removed, the cylinder with the keyhole can be removed.
5 When inspecting the pins you will notice that the combined length of the two pins in any hole are the same. Put the pins with the rounded end into the corresponding hole in the smaller cylinder with the key in. The top of the pins should be even with the side of the cylinder. When the key is removed, the pins should slide further into the cylinder. If they were not even with the key in then this is why you could not turn the key in the assembled lock. To re-key this lock, put in the new key and make new pins of suitable lengths (I used a stainless welding wire and this has worked for over three years). Now remove the pins and mach them with the second pin, flat both ends, to give a similar combined length as before.
6 Assembly. Install the smaller cylinder, with the keyhole, into the larger lock cylinder, without the key. Insert the correct matching pins in the appropriate holes and rotate the inner cylinder until the holes match and the cylinders lock together. Install the springs from the back as you slide on the outer sleeve. Insert the key and if you have not mixed up the pins, you should be able to turn the key. Reinstall the locking ring and assemble the lock assembly making sure that the push button with sleeve is installed correctly. Use a new lock washer when mounting the locking lever as it would be a pity if your newly repaired lock falls out when your driving.
Best of Luck
Anders
posted by 203.19.11...
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