Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 19:23:29 -0500 From: "J. Pires" <worldnet.piresnopsamoffice.worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: 87 900 water pump question
Hi Yawn! I read all your postings, and the advice you gave the originator was very good, all I wanted tyo say was that if you go through all the trouble to get to the pump...replace it, if you want to put in a factory pump that is fine. The time it will save you later on is well worth the expense. I was skeptical about the $37 pump, however the design has been upgraded it has a cast impeller the same as the factory pumps. I do agree with you that sometimes the factory stuff is better, but you have to remember that Japan gave us HONDA, TOYOTA, MITSUBISHi, ...etc...etc. Regards Joe Ywan Mason wrote: > First let me begin with, MAN MY EMAIL IS SCREWED!! Why did it send the > same > message so many times? Forgive me, it wasn't my fault that I know of. > > > Since you have to do all thet work just to get to the water pump > (worst > > if you have A/C), why not spend the $37.00 and replace the whole > thing? > > Joe > > If you are going to replace it with a $37 unit, you'd be just as well > putting > the original back on. $37 water pumps are usually Japanese (GMB I > think is the > brand) with a cheap metal impeller that either dissolves away in the > coolant > or separates from the shaft if the bearing in them lasts that long. > Then you > have a mysteriously overheating engine. Or one that suddenly, with no > warning > throws the bearing and the belts. The factory pump is designed to > begin to > weep coolant out its hole when bearing failure begins so you have > warning. I > have seen many GMBs drop the bearing and never leak a drop or give > noise > before hand. No way are they the equivalent of the factory pump which > costs > only a little more ($88). I commonly see aftermarket pumps fail in > less than a > year. Then you're right back there doing the same thing again if you > are > lucky. Or a whole set of belts and possibly a crank sensor on newer > models if > the bearing seizes and throws the belts around the crank pulley. If > you are > unlucky, you are replacing a head gasket or engine at the same time. > > I agree with you though, that if you go that far, you should replace > the pump, > I would. If you read the post in its entirety though, I gave what to > check for > in a pump if just the gasket were leaking. Unless just installed by > someone > who either used a high speed die grinder and removed too much aluminum > from > the front cover or didn't properly clean the old gasket off (presuming > the > pump was a factory unit with the supplied quality gasket), I have > found over > the last 15 years that the gasket is never the problem. > Leaks from that area, if not originating from the weep hole, come from > the > hose clamps loosening on the hoses to the rear of the pump. > > Ywan Mason (hoping this only goes out once!)
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