Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 18:35:32 +0100
From: "Tim Ricketts ,Wales, UK ." <>
Subject: Re: '84 900 GLs clutch problem

Christian Mayne wrote: > > Thanks to all who've helped so far. > > One further query - > I've spoken to a local SAAB specialist for details about master cylinder > replacement. He's given me a price for replacement with a new master > cylinder and a price for replacement with a second hand master cylinder. > The difference between the two is about UKP35. > > How risky is it to use a second hand master cylinder? Is it a serious > false economy? I assume these things have limited lives... > > Thanks in advance > Christian > > John Weiss <jrweissnopsamet*NOSPAM*.com> wrote in article > <6hjijg$>... > > Likely either the master or slave cylinder is leaking internally. I'd > start > > by rebuilding the master. > > > > Also, ensure you use a pressure bleeding rig -- vacuum bleeders seldom > work > > on the Saab system. > > --------------------- > > John R. Weiss > > Seattle, WA > > Remove *NOSPAM* from address for e-mail reply > > > > Christian Mayne wrote in message > > <01bd6c67$b9454d80$>... > > >I've had my '84 900 for a couple of years or so and in that time the > clutch > > >has always had a bit of slack. The clutch has been bleed once which > solved > > >the problem, but the slack distance increased recently, leaving the > peddle > > >slack about half way. I bleed the clutch and that seemed OK for a week > or > > >so, but while driving last night the slackness returned. I noticed that > in > > >both cases, this slackness occured after about 2 hours continuous > driving > > > > > >I know very little about clutch assembly (or mechanics in general,as it > > >goes), but I assume air is somehow getting into the clutch causing this > > >slackness. The sudden increase has worried me. Is it fair to assume > the > > >clutch is on the way out and will need replacing? If so, how big a job > is > > >this? > > > > > >Thanks in advance for any help > > >Christian > > > > > -- > > Dear all,does the second hand cylinder come with any guarantee?.If not then it's better to go for the new one.From memory,the seal kit to refurb. the old cyl. is about ukp 4 .If you can diy you'll certainly save some money.It's any easy job if you're at all handy with the spanners-depending on the model its some times possible to replace the seals with the master cyl in situ -just get your head up under the dash and you can remove the push rod then get to the circlip retaining the plunger and seals.Remember to clamp the fluid line running from the master cyl reservoir to the clutch master cyl. A pressure bleeder is certainly a good idea.If you can't access the cyl inside the car then remove it and do it on the bench.Tim.

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