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Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 02:27:56 GMT
From: coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com>
Subject: Re: 1994 9000CS timing chain


In article <8fstvp$lgl$1nopsam1.deja.com>, coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com> wrote: > In article <8frsfo$et9$1nopsam1.deja.com>, > coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com> wrote: > > After returning from vacation in the end of April, I got a motor with > > 69k miles to replace mine 100k mile one which was damaged when the > > Woodruff key was sheared off at the tip on the timing chain sprocket, > > making it not turning the cam. > > > > After considerable car putting in the motor, it won't start. The > > following is what I wrote to ask the Saabmasters at Townsend motors > but > > was returned undelivered for some reason. I thought I share it with > > you. Any help is appreciated. > > > > [begin quote] > > > > What damage may cause to the ignition system by turning over the motor > > with the Direct Ignition cartridge removed from the spark plugs but > > connected to the wiring? The Haynes manual (page 5B.2) says it will > > damage the DI cartridge. Will it also damage the Engine Control Unit? > > Also can I test for sparks by removing the DI with all four spark > plugs > > attached to it? > > > > I put in a '94 motor with 69k miles in place of my 100k one which was > > damaged by the timing chain. The timing chain did not break. But the > > chain was not being turned by the crank shaft on the old motor to > drive > > the cams because the tip of the Woodruff key on the crank shaft, which > > the timing chain sprocket engages, was sheared off and failed in > > fatigue. When I opened up the timing chain cover and found that out, > I > > reversed the Woodruff key, put the chain back and did a compression > > test to verify compression (there was none). When I did the > > compression test, the DI cartridge was connected to the wiring leading > > to the ECU. It may have damaged the DI cartridge. > > > > Not wanting to mess around with head rebuild and potentially damaged > > pistons, rods and crankshaft, I decided to replace the motor. To > make a > > long story short, after I put in the motor with considerable care, I > > started the engine. The motor turns over. But won't start. > Initially > > I loosened the fuel pod to the injectors and saw no fuel. But that's > > before I suspected the DI cartridge on the new (well, used) motor was > > bad and replaced it with the DI cartridge on the damaged motor (the > one > > I did the compression test). > > > > Later, I turned the ignition key on and heard the click of the pump > > relay in the engine compartment. Also, I jumpered the fuel pump > > connector (fuse 14) to the hazard switch (fuse 22) and heard the fuel > > pump whine. After a few minute, the presence of fuel was confirmed by > > loosening the bolt on the fuel pod to the injectors, where fuel starts > > to seep out. Still the motor won't start (with the DI cartridge > > suspicious of being damaged). > > > > Now that fuel is confirmed in the fuel pod, could I remove the DI > > cartridge, with the spark plugs attached to see if sparks are produced > > when the engine turns over? My next step is to replace the damaged DI > > cartridge with the good one (the one which came with the 69k mile > > motor) and try starting again. If that fails, what else could be > > wrong? Does the ECU need to be reset? Of course I could do the > > compression test on the 69k motor, this time with the wire > disconnected > > from the DI cartridge. I highly suspect they sold me a bad motor > > though. > > > > Is there a way to test the DI cartridge and the ECU standing alone? > > > > [end quote] > > > > Put in the supposedly good Direct Ignition cartridge from the bought > motor and cranked the engine. Still won't start. > > Removed the DI cartridge and spark plugs. Removed fuse for the fuel > pump (fuse 14). Tested compression on each port. All cylinders > register over 100 psi at the second piston upswing. Good news. It > proved the motor is good. > > There is fuel in the fuel pod. But is it being injected to the > cylinders for combustion? Also, I have to find a way to test for > sparks. I need both to have ignition now that I know it will happen if > there are there because compression is good. > > I think my next step is to remove the the DI cartridge and spark > plugs. Insert the spark plugs to the DI cartridge plug receptacles. > Ground each plug to the engine. Crank the motor with the fuel pump > fuse removed to see if sparks do occur. If there are sparks, there > apparently is a problem with fuel. If there are none, I could have a > bad DI cartridge or a bad ECU. I hope it's not both. Process of > elimination. One thing at a time. > > make you wonder if DI was such a good idea. No wonder no other car > makers are following suit. > Pulled the DI cartridge. Pulled the spark plugs and inserted them into the DI cartridge receptacles. Reconnected the wiring to the DI cartridge. Stripped a five-foot-long household wiring copper wire (12 gage), wrapped it around every plug and then ground it to the engine block. Removed the fuse for the fuel pump (fuse 14). Cranked the engine. No sparks! My heart sank. I wish there is a way to individually test either the DI cartridge or ECU. A DI cartridge is $350. How much is a ECU? coxinga -- Coxinga/ The 17th century warlord, son of a pirate, who was bestowed the last name of Ming emperors. He defeated the Dutch to capture Formosa. A rare victory in the struggle against colonialism by the East. It spelled the beginning of the end for the Dutch East India Co. Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ Before you buy.

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