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Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 23:07:26 -0500
From: "Morgan Bullard" <mjbullardnopsamaone.net>
Subject: Re: More cold-start questions (long)


1) Find the vacuum leak 2) get the Bentley manual and the Haynes manuals. The leagand for the Haynes manual is sorted differently than the Bentley, this is the _only_ use for the Haynes manual. 3) There is a repair manual for Bosch fuel injection systems that is blue and at most most Borders and Barnes and Nobel bookstores, get it. It's either Haynes or Chiltons, but I think it's Haynes. 4) Find the vacuum leak and you might want to play with the mixture, I think 84's still had CIS. You will need a long 3mm allen wrench for the adjustment and a spray can of WD-40 for the vacuum leak. 5) Item 2 will explain how all the warmup parts work, but to summarize, there is a heating coil on a bi-metalic strip that is always supplyed with power whenever the engine is running. This opens and closes the aux air valve. A separate strip but moves the fuel valve in the warmup regulator. This probably isn't your problem as they really don't do that much until it get cold, as in late fall to winter. 6) Find the vacuum leak The air flow meter is that thing on the drivers side (US not England) near the front with all the fuel lines going to it. The mixture adjustment is between the big rubber hose that comes out and goes to the intake manifold and the 4 fuel lines that go to the fuel injectors in the intake manifold. Did I mention, you probably have a vacuum leak? "Four Weis" <mweinopsamcom> wrote in message news:39A1E7D5.5F824F0Bnopsamcom... > You have many questions which the more technical Saab owners could answer in > more detail. Get a good set of metric sockets and the appropriate tools > before you start anything. It will make working on the Saab a pleasure > instead of a series of frustrating problems. If you don't know already, you > will find many uses for the 10mm and 13 mm sockets and wrenches on a 900. > Life will be a lot easier with a set of Torx drivers. You will need a good > multi-meter to help diagnosis you idle problem, which is probably due to > multiple reasons in the fuel and ignition system. > > Good luck! > > "Scott I. Remick" wrote: > > > Having solved my occasional starter problem, I move onto hopefully easier > > things on my stubborn 1984 SAAB 900S. Today, we talk about rough cold- > > starts. I've got a lot of questions... any takers? > > > > First some background... > > > > After starting, even when it was run not too long ago, it will sometimes > > run for a few seconds then die. We might go through this another couple > > times, then she'll stay going... barely. The engine sounds awful, as it > > seems like not all the cylinders are firing. Touch the gas at any point > > and she'll threaten to stall (if she doesn't actually). It'll take a > > little while of running like this in neutral before all cylinders catch > > and it sounds normal. Yet even then, touch the gas, and the RPMs go DOWN > > and it threatens to stall. You have to play this little game for a bit > > longer still before RPMs go UP when you press the gas DOWN (novel > > concept). > > > > And YET... even though you get to that point, trying it after the car is > > in gear and expecting to go forward is interesting. It's as if actually > > having the engine pull the car now makes it be troublesome all over > > again.... the RPMs will drop when you touch the gas, it will threaten to > > stall... release the gas, the RPMs go back up. Play this game for a > > little bit, until it warms up further, then you start pulling the car > > forward when you touch the gas. But the hesitation remains for a little > > bit... you can put the gas down, and it's a moment before the RPMs > > actually go up. And sometimes they'll go up a little bit, hang there for > > a few seconds, then go up further, all without changing how far you > > pushed down the gas. It's a while before all the power that should be > > there finally appears. > > > > After a few minutes of driving, the car is PERFECTLY FINE and peppy. Go > > figure. > > > > Now, it's due to have the plugs removed... I know this. I've normally > > had it done elsewhere but she's an old car so I've gotten into doing more > > work myself these days. Turned out the socket I had was the wrong size, > > so I picked up the only metric one I could find (18mm)... hopefully it's > > the right one. I'm going to grab some Bosch Platinum plugs (think it's > > WR7DP?). Probably change the wires too. Distributor and rotor are brand > > new. > > > > However, I'm looking at other stuff too. I'm concerned about the aux. > > air valve. What's the proper way to test this component? I've got a > > Haynes manual which is pretty useless on the subject. I took off the > > hose opposite the electrical contacts and I can see the oval-shaped > > viewport to what appears to be a metal disc inside. The part of the disc > > exposed by the oval opening reveals two tiny holes... one centered, and > > one partially exposed to the right so it could extend further around the > > disc. On the several times I've taken the hose off to peek, it's always > > at the same position. How does this part work (I know what it DOES, but > > not how it operates)? How do I test it? Am I seeing what I should be > > seeing? > > > > The Haynes manual describes an involved procedure of removing the fuel > > pump relay, jumpering 2 of its terminals, and a few other things. When I > > jumper the terminal the wire I use (14 gauge I think) gets EXTREMELY hot > > so I stop that real fast and don't feel good about it. > > > > I'm going to try and check the cold start (fuel) valve too.. that seems > > easy enough. Wondering about the air mass meter too... not sure I'm > > looking at the right piece. Which is it? There's a box that the air > > intake feeds into... it then splits off in 2 directions: one to the > > exhaust manifold, and the other to the air filter. There's a wire from > > this box that loops up into a probe in the air line right before it > > reaches the throttle valve. There's another strange box that plugs into > > the side of the same big rubber tube that goes from the air flow sensor > > and curves around to the throttle valve... this box has some other > > smaller air hoses going into it. I'm pretty sure that the AMM is one of > > these two black boxes... but which? And how do I test? > > > > Should I look at the warm-up regulator? Just what does this do and how > > does it work? > > > > Do aftermarket versions of these parts exist? (probably not) Or should I > > go with new? Used? Rebuilt? From whom? > > > > Thanks for all your help! > > > > ----------------------- > > Scott I. Remick scottnopsamuteralt.com > > Network and Information (802)388-7545 ext. 236 > > Systems Manager FAX:(802)388-3697 > > Computer Alternatives, Inc. http://www.computeralt.com >

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