Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 19:29:33 -0400 From: Scott I. Remick <scottnopsamuteralt.com> Subject: Re: '88 9000T - no start when hot
Sorry... could not find original message, so I'm replying at this point in the thread. I think I know what this is, because I had the EXACT same problem on my '84 900S which plagued me for over a year until I got to the bottom of it. It took me that long because it was so intermittent, but finally started happening frequently enough for me to troubleshoot it. It wasn't the starter, and it wasn't the ignition switch (both got replaced at one point). After a while I learned that when it happened I could use a screwdriver to short two terminals on the starter and get her going (sure beats pop-starting). I don't know what the wiring is like in your 9000T, but after replacing my ignition switch (on my own) and discovering that that wasn't it, I left the plastic cover off the center console between the seats so that I could get at the wires when it wouldn't start and test things. Keeping a multimeter in the car, I determined that when it was hot, there was a short in the wire that went from the switch to the starter. Somewhere it was shorting against ground and electricity was "leaking"... sometimes just a little so there was hesitation after turning the key before the starter turned, or sometimes a lot where it wouldn't start at all (I would get lights and power everywhere else). As it got increasingly worse (more frequent), there were a few times where shorting the terminals on the starter wouldn't even do the trick (the starter would turn, but it wouldn't start). It occurred to me that I was doing this with the wire that was shorting STILL ATTACHED (duh) and it could've been that enough electricity was leaking that it couldn't get going. I tried unplugging the wire from the starter first then shorting the terminals, and sure enough... it started. I then compared the resistance to ground from that end of the wire to the resistance from the ignition switch, and determined that the short was closer to the starter. THIS PAST SATURDAY, I ran a test run of 12-gauge wire from the ignition switch to the starter, crimped new insulated female-spade connectors on each end and attached them in place of the existing wire. I haven't had a single instance of hesitation or non-starting since. Granted, it's been only a few days, but I believe I've solved it for good. Best of luck to you... this one was a bitch for me and it frustrated me for a LONG TIME. > "Ken Bell" <kenbellnopsamx.com> wrote in message > news:8mkon5$dog$1nopsamx6.panix.com... > > > > I've begun having a puzzling problem with my '88 9000T. Over the > > last several months (I drive it infrequently, maybe only 20 times > > or so in that time) it has become more and more likely to not > > restart after the engine becomes normally hot (say, one hour of > > city driving). At first, it would restart if I let it sit for 15 > > minutes or so. Today (outside the NY state inspection station :-) > > it took 4 hours. This seems to be heat related, huh? > > > > While waiting there today, I opened and reclosed the gas cap, just > > to see if there was any pressure build up (no), replaced the rotor > > and distributor cap (long over due), made sure the ignition wires > > were seated properly, and reseated all the relays, even rapping > > the fuel pump and injector relays to make sure they weren't sticking. > > A couple of weeks ago, I replaced a long suspect ignition coil. > > The battery appears in good condition and provided over 11 V while > > cranking (well, at least the last time I tried, when the car finally > > started and I drove home; the car then drove very nicely, even up > > hills). The alternator provides about 13.3 V at idle, sometimes > > runs up to about 14 V when the car first gets on the road. > > > > I'd appreciate ideas on where and how to look next. I'm considering > > the fuel pump, Hall effect sensor, ignition module, and mass air > > flow sensor. Am I headed in a reasonable direction with these, or > > might there be something else, maybe even something cheaper, to > > check first? Can I test the ignition module, MAF and Hall sensors > > with the usual DIY equipment (i.e., a multimeter and lots of free > > time)? I suppose it could also be a bad starter, however the last > > time (before replacing the ignition coil, the car cut out several > > times while tooling around the city on a hot day while looking for > > an open inspection station), so I'm guessing that unless there are > > two problems, it's not the starter. Thanks. > > > > -- > > Ken Bell :: kenbellnopsamx.com :: (212) 475-4976 (voice) > > > -- ----------------------- Scott I. Remick scottnopsamuteralt.com Network and Information (802)388-7545 ext. 236 Systems Manager FAX:(802)388-3697 Computer Alternatives, Inc. http://www.computeralt.com
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