Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 00:24:43 +0100 From: Danny Horne <dannynopsamftop.net> Subject: Re: 89 9000 Turbo - Instrument Lights
In article <xYj97.45651$SK6.5757334nopsam6-win.server.ntlworld.com>, Mal Farrelle crawled out of the sewer and burped.... > I seem to be digging a real hole for myself with my new '89 9000 - I just > walked away from it breathing deeply having spent two hours trying to fix a > problem, only to introduce another. Any suggestions appreciated . . . > > My fan temperature selector wasn't working, so I removed the instrument > panel. This caused the link rod (connected at one end to the blown air > routing control) to fall off. This seems impossible to replace as it fits > only when the panel is shoved back in place. I figured a way to overcome > this - I removed two instruments (seat heater switch and immobilizer led) to > the right of the fan control panel and managed to hold the universal joint > at the end of the linkage rod in place, using a bent wire hanger. After an > hour or so fiddling I eventually got the panel back in place with the link > rod connected properly. Unfortunately, somewhere along the way I lost my > dashboard backlights. The computer lights - but very faintly. When I > switch the interior courtesy light on the computer display brightens, but > still no dash backlight. Switching the headlamps on (with the courtesy > light off) neither switches the backlights on or causes the computer display > to brighten. > > Thanks, > > Mal > > > Hee, hee, exactly the same thing happened to me the other week, but I lost my instrument lights some other time. Hope you get an answer for the both of us. One theory I've got is that I've lost my whole accesory circuit. This is because (I believe) the instrument lights are independent of the main lights & are supposed to come on when the ignition key is turned to the first 'notch'. My radio cassette stopped working at the same time because it had lost power to the accessory line. I was hacking away at my heater controls because the fan switch was only working on it's highest setting, & I wanted to get to the back of the switch to test it with a mutimeter. It wasn't until later that someone told me I needed a new resistor block. I didn't realise until I'd put everything together that the link rod had come off. The easiest way I found to put it back was to remove the glovebox. I was able to push the rod on at the 'deep end' (you can get your arm in via glovebox recess & behind radio etc.) & hold it while I pushed the heater controls back into place with my other hand.
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