Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 16:50:35 GMT
From: (Steve Crowe)
Subject: Re: Remote Entry

On Sat, 27 Apr 2002 23:06:25 GMT, wrote: >Steve, >Wow! Great answer. Thanks. Bad news though since ++++++ is 001105. >Also, God help me I have the V6. Is there a specific thing I should >pray about, or is the V6 just not as quick and powerful as the turbo? >I've already gleaned from this board that those who've had the turbo >hate the V6. Since I don't know what I'm missing, it doesn't bother >me (too much). My biggest problem with the V-6 is the cost of repairs. The timing belt replacement MUST be replaced every 30K starting at 35K on the 94-96 900/9000 cars and 60K starting at 65K on 97 900/9000 cars. If the belt breaks the enigne WILL BEND VALVES, WILL BREAK VALVE GUIDES, and MAY HOLE PISTONS. You will spend multiple hundreds/thousands of dollars to repair the car/engine. Saab will pay for the first 3 timing belts on the 94-96 cars at 35K, 65K, 95K plus or minus 5K. They will pay for one belt on the 97 cars at 65K plus or minus 5K. Additionally the timing belt tensioners fail. Saab will buy the tensioner once if it is the old style(while doing the belt). The old style has no up-curved lip on the actual belt tensioner as opposed to the idler pulleys. Personally, I recommed replacement of all the pulleys when doing the belt. I have seen more pulleys fail and cause the belt to fail, then any other belt problem Saab sells a kit with the belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys. About $385.00 the last I looked. Also you really need the special tools to set the timing belt correctly. There are marks on the engine and they will work, but the timing will most likely not be right on. The front cam set and rear cam set timing can be adjusted indepentantly. This is done by adjusting the idler pulleys. The tool set has a plate the sits in the cam sprokets with marks to align them to. I set the front cam set first, the rear cam set second, then adjust the overall tension. I then rotate the crank twice and recheck. Repeat this as needed to get it right. Some Indies have the tools, Most chain stores don't. I have seen engines ruined, because the butcher would not remove the sepertine belt tensioner and broke the timing cover. And finally, ALWAYS check the timing cover seal. If is loose, use super glue to hold it in place. If it has oil on it, REPLACE it. If the seal gets into the timing belt, well see the first part of the response. Oil leaks: These cars love to to it. Valve covers are made of plastic and warp. I suggest replacing the whole cover as it comes with the gasket and o-rings. It is not that much more the the $35.00 gasket and the 8 $2.00 o-rings. Engine oil cooler: This little $400.00-$500.00 gem is located in-between the "V" under the intake manifold. When it fails, it will leak oil into the coolant. Most people don't know it until the first coolant hose pops. The oil causes the coolant hoses to get soft and blow. If this happens, replace the oil cooler and EVERY coolant hose in the car. Plus, flush the coolant system with dishwashing soap to get out all the oil. Also the cover for the oil cooler is the source of a coolant leak. The gasket material used does not work. Saab still uses it on the 9-5 V-6 and it still leaks coolant. I used Locktite 518 and have never had a comeback. This leak is often mistaken for a head gasket leak. The head gaskets on these cars do seem to last much better than the 4 cylinder ones Oil pan gasket: Most of the time, you will trash the $250.00 oil pan trying to remove it to replace this cork composite gasket. Sometimes you get lucky. Camshaft seal: Not a common problem, but worth looking at when doing the timing belt. If they leak, the oil can contaminate the timing belt and cause eary failure. And while we are on that subject ALWAYS check the water pump for leakage and play in the bearing. If it fails, it will also ruin the belt. Other than, that the V-6 is an OK engine. Smooth, good power, although very noisy, but no balance chains to replace and the head gaskets hold up well. Many people really love their V-6 cars as they will state on in this group. > >So, if I set the alarm with the doorkey and it goes off, how do I stop >it? With the key in the doorlock, I assume. Yep, thats right. I would recommend using the "Deadbolt " feature as well. >I feel lke such a newbie. Next week I'll start in on cupholders...!!! > Well, we all were at one time. Good luck, Steve Crowe, Ex-Saab Master Tech Harpers Ferry, WV >On Sat, 27 Apr 2002 12:12:05 GMT, (Steve Crowe) >wrote: > >>On Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:19:38 GMT, wrote: >> >>>I just bought a '95 900SE convertible. The manual suggests that a >>>remote was standard, but it didn't come with one. Was a remote >>>standard? If not, how can I tell if my car has it? >>> >>>There is an anti-theft sticker on the window. Use of the remote is >>>the only method the manual gives for turning off the alarm. If the >>>alarm goes off and I don't have a remote, what do I do? >>> >>>Thanks. >>1995 was the first year for the NG900 convertible. 1994 was the first >>year for the NG900 Hardtop. The 1994 NG900 did not come with a remote. >>The alarm system is activated with the key in the driver's door lock. >>The first batch of 95 convertibles also used this system. The easy way >>to tell is to look at the last eight of the VIN. Your VIN will be: >> >>YS3DF7#nopsam+++++ >> >>YS3 = Saab >>D = NG900 if 10th digit between R and W >>F = SE trim level >>7 = convertible >># = Trans type: 5 if it is a 5 speed or 8 if it is an automatic >> >

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