Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:47:50 -0000
From: MeatballTurbo <>
Subject: Re: Orca finally swallowed that duck ...

In article <>, says... > in article, MeatballTurbo at > wrote on 10/03/2003 08:25: > > > In article <>, > > says... > >> The air-vent canister valve has finally gone caput. > >> > >> On closer inspection of the valve, there is some diaphragm (?) rubber stuck > >> out through the vents. I get no pressure at all to the air vents. I've not > >> yet pulled the canister out, or the valve off - didn't see much point, since > >> it's knacked. What else does this canister hold vac for? I don't have ABS or > >> cruise. > > > > I think what happened to mine is, after I stretched the spring (maybe > > not though) to get rid of the quacking, the three slots burst, I guess > > that are designed as a weak point to go if there is a problem. > > It was the three slots where I saw slivers of old rubber - did the valve > have a diaphragm at the top? Don't think mine did, just a rubber lip arround the plunger that is sat at the bootom of the spring (slots are at the top). Wonder if that is what went on mine too then. > >> Would it be better to pull the vac pipe (the one connected to the valve) off > >> and cap it off, or just leave it on the busted valve. I don't want to blow > >> the canister as well under turbo pressure - or does a busted valve hold no > >> pressure whatsoever? > > > > I capped both, with two screws, cable tied in place. No probs so far. > > BTW, when it went did you lose boost power on the gauge, or did the way > > the gauge displays change? the idle point for the needle on mine changed > > when the canister/valve went. > > I still get the same boost as before and the needle operates the same. Go > figure that one :) > > I think my boost gauge is served from a Y connector (which also has a larger > pipe to the brake servo) next to the vac canister connector on the intake > manifold. I did some tentative squeezing on that pipe once in the hope of > finding the best place to route a graduated turbo gauge from - I still > haven't found a decent gauge yet though :( > When Idling, previous to probs with the valve, when it was quacking, the boost gauge needle would sit at about 1/3 of the way up the while section, and boost would top out, high yellow. When I fiddled arround, stopped the quacking, and lost all the fire power, the needle would sit at about 2/3 white at idle, and only show 1/3-1/2 yellow on boost. Now I have removed it from the cannister, and capped the tubes, it is showing the same as before. And too much throttle in 2nd gets the tyres smoking (although not so much since I fitted the new Avons). -- Carl Robson The poster formally known as Skodapilot.

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