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Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 01:31:30 GMT
From: "Abdallah" <>
Subject: Re: No high beams on 1987 9000

"Grunff" <> wrote in message news:b5ae65$26djrd$ : Alan Dzija wrote: : : > My conclusion is that it's the switch, on the steering column which : > controls the high beams, turn signal, hazard lights, and cruise : > control. Turn signal and hazard functions are OK, cruise doesn't work : > (hasn't worked in a while either, but there are too many components to : > conclude that it's the switch). : > : > From my reading of the factory wiring diagram, there are no other : > components in the high beam circuit path. I understand some later cars : > may have a "big relay" which controls this which often goes bad. The : > biggest "relay" in my panel is a "filament monitor" which checks (I : > thinks) that all the bulbs are working. In checking part numbers, 1986, : > 1987, and 1988 each used a different part # for the switch. : > : > The switch is $250 min from a dealer -- anything I've overlooked before : > plunking down the cash? Suggestions/help/sympathy greatly appreciated : > -- thanks in advance. Alan : : The switch is a very common failure. But if it is the switch, : the the dash high-beam indicator wouldn't come on either. : : Assuming it's the switch, they're very easy to replace. All you : have to do is unscrew the bottom shell of the column housing : (after pulling the column all the way forward), and remove the : top + bottom halves. You can then unbolt the switch and remove it. : : If you can get a good second hand unit, that's your easiest : option. If not, read on. : : The switch comes apart quite easily (examine it, you'll see : how). The most common failure mode is for the square cam which : closes the contacts to melt. Alternatively, the contacts can get : badly pitted and no longer make contact. Take a look. Check the : cam (white plastic part). Check + clean the contacts with fine : emery paper. : : When my 1987 switch failed, I replaced it with a good used one. : When that one failed a year later, I replaced it with a toggle : switch which I mounted on the dash and wired straight to the : switch plug. : : -- : Grunff : if it is indeed the melted cam, i've seen other solutions posted elsewhere, but this is how i solved it. if you are handy at epoxy, have a cutting knife, a piece of <secret ingredient> plastic laminate (you know, the stuff kitchen counters are made of - you should be able to get samples from any cabinet manufacturer) </secret ingredient>, a small metal file (emery cloth may do) and an afternoon to spare, extract the assembly as described and take out that melted nylon cam part to rebuild it. what i did was to fabricate a small square cam from a double thickness of the plastic laminate (glued together with epoxy), drilled a small hole through it and epoxied it into position on the nylon rod. of course you have to cut off the old square first, so you'll have to mark its orientation accurately so it activates the metal toggle switch correctly. a bit fiddly, but if you get familiar with how it all works first, then its a snap. the square cam is designed to go through a full rotation every eight flics of the dipper switch. it alternates between sitting flat on a reciprocating metal toggle (lo-beam) and sitting with a corner against the flat metal "spring" (what do you call that thing?) that moves the metal contact (hi-beam). the reason i used the plastic laminate is that i figured it would not melt (resists hot pots on the kitchen counter!) nor would it transfer heat to the epoxy or the nylon rod since its an insulator. i've had the rebuilt switch in the car for over six months now and it hasn't "mis-fired" yet! hope that was understandible abdallah

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