Date: 22 Sep 2004 14:33:39 GMT From: Dave Hinz <DaveHinznospamcop.net> Subject: Re: How hard is it to replace a slave cylinder on an 87' saab 900S?
On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 11:40:31 GMT, LC <goalie22nospamail.com> wrote: > I also looked at the picture. That looks quite a bit like what the item > looks like from pictures i've seen. I know this was from a '78 Saab 99. > My question is... Will I have to seperate the tranny from the engine to get > at the clutch slave cylinder on the 900? If so, that makes my job > appreciably harder. Nope, those pictures are mechanically identical for purposes of the clutch, to the car you're talking about. 3 bolts (10mm head I think), get that spacer tool. Oh hell, might as well write it now. Saab 99 / Classic 900 Clutch replacement procedure: Parts suggested: Clutch Kit (consists of clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing) Pilot bearing (ball bearing goes on the end of the clutch shaft in the center of the flywheel) Consider a "rear" main seal (the "rear" of the engine is in the front of the car). Procedure: - Remove the radiator and/or grille assembly. You _can_ do the clutch on a 900 without taking the radiator out, but it's tight. On the 99, the radiator/grille assembly definately needs to come out. - Remove the turbo ductwork (if present) to allow unubstructed access to clutch cover (black plastic shroud). - Remove the black plastic clutch cover - 3 bolts (?), left bottom, right bottom, and top center. - Have a helper depress the clutch pedal and hold it, while you insert the Saab Clutch Retaining Ring tool (or use heavy wire/flexible copper tubing/etc) to keep the clutch fingers in a depressed state. This give you the clearance you'll need to remove the clutch. - Disconnect the hydraulic line at some point, now would be fine if you can get in there. - Remove the (clutch shaft cover?) from the front of the gearbox housing. Big metal clip holding on a hatch. - Remove the plastic oil slinger from the end of the clutch shaft, and screw in one of the bolts (probably from the clutch shroud) that fits. - Gently lever the shaft forward out of the clutch disk; remove from car (or move forward up nearly against the radiator in a Saab 900). - Loosen the pressure plate bolts, and slave cylinder bolts. Remove the assembly as a group, upwards. - (optional but strongly suggested) Remove the flywheel, press out the old pilot bearing, press in a new one. Always put force on the outer race, never put force through the balls in the bearing. A socket works well for this. Re-assembly is, as they say, the reverse of removal. Once it's all back together, you need to bleed the clutch. The best way to do this is to use a funnel and tubing connected to the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder, and let gravity push the bubbles back to the reservoir. In my garage, with my tools at hand, it's an afternoon drive. To be honest, I'd try bleeding it & driving home, and save the 1/2 day of work for when you get home. It's a bit risky but not critically so - you can start the car in gear if you have to, and you don't actually need the clutch to shift. Not going to strand you, is what I'm saying. Dave Hinz