Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 02:43:54 GMT From: "LC" <goalie22nospamail.com> Subject: Re: How hard is it to replace a slave cylinder on an 87' saab 900S?
He says it's leaking a little when hot, and that it has not been bled. He found this out on a trip back from atlanta (to des moines). Any clues there? Either way, from what my mechanic buddy says, it's a piece of cake job to replace the slave cylinder... but then again, it's 500 miles away if replacing that doesn't work! "Dave Hinz" <DaveHinznospamcop.net> wrote in message news:2rbk1oF18p7etU1nospamberlin.de... > On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 19:18:56 GMT, LC <goalie22nospamail.com> wrote: >> Not sure exactly... it's an ebay mobile. It's currently sitting about >> 500 >> miles from me. He says that the clutch is fine until it gets warm, and >> then >> you have to pump it up to get it to function.. He was told by a local >> saab >> mechanic that it was the slave cylinder. > > To me, that sounds like air bubbles, anyone else agree? I'd go for it. > I'm thinking you _might_ be able to get it fixed by just bleeding the > clutch properly; unless it's pissing fluid all over (ask) that may be the > only thing wrong. Find out if it's leaking there or just working badly > when it's warm. If it's not leaking, then do this: > > Take along (stay with me here, I'm serious) a roll of duct tape, a turkey > baster, 6 feet of clear tubing to fit over the end of the baster, two > pints of DOT-4 brake fluid, and the right size wrench for the clutch > bleeder nipple (13mm? Anyone know this? I can check tonight). > > Take a look here: > http://22.214.171.124:/dave/saab/99turbo/reanimation/ > Click on "removing the engine" > There's a collection of thumbnail images there. The one with the best > view > of the clutch slave cyl. is number 030.html, click on it for a bigger > shot. > image 032 is pretty good too. Anyway, the best way to bleed the clutch on > these cars has nothing to do with the clutch pedal and pumping, because > there > is a long vertical tube that's of more volume than the volume of the > master > cyl...so you can't get it all out that way, period. > > Open the hood. Tape the baster to the upper (used to be rear) edge of > the hood (after removing the bulb. It's a funnel now.) Hose from > baster onto bleeder nipple, fluid in baster. Try to get the bubble out > of the clear tubing before you push it through the system, no reason to > make this worse. Let gravity pull the fluid down through the baster, > through the clear tube, into the slave cyl, up the piping, and into the > reservoir. Watch the pretty bubbles, and try not to let the funnel/tube > empty or you'll get new bubbles in there. > > When it's done bubbling (you may have to siphon some fluid out of the > reservoir during all this), close the bleeder nipple, and remove your > funnel/hose. Don't get the DOT-4 on the paint. > > If the clutch is leaking hydraulic fluid and the slave really is bad, > then this won't help much if at all. But, there's at least a reasonable > chance that the "doesn't work when hot" is actually air space in the > fluid. Worst case you'll know that's not it. If it works when > it's cold, you can at least get going, and you can get a long way > on the freeway without shifting. > >> I dunno.. it's a decent car for cheap, and I need something for my >> sis-in-law. > > If you're comfortable with the above, you should be fine. I don't know if > I'd drive a couple days with a suspect clutch, but I wouldn't have a > problem > doing it for, say, a 1/2 day cross-state trip if that's the sort of thing > we're talking about. I'm open to anyone saying "that's not an air > problem, > Dave", but it's at least reasonable, likely, and easy to fix. > > Dave Hinz > >