Date: 18 Oct 2004 13:12:29 -0700 From: jaimepereznospamess56.com (JPerez) Subject: Re: 1992 Sabb conv 2.1 check engine light
It's not hard, I just did it on a 93 900s. 1. The sensor is located between the manifold and catalytic converter. As a point of reference, from above find the manifold and look down to where it connects with the muffler pipe. After that, get under the car and look where they connect and again follow it about four to nine inches while looking on the top side of the pipe. You should see something that resembles a spark plug in diameter with some wires going up toward the engine, that's it. More specifically it will be near the passenger side front wheel, near the rack. Note: It might be hard to break free from under the car as you'll not have much leverage but with some effort and something to extend the length of your wrench (gives you more leverage) you should be able to do it. You might want to use some type of spray to help loosen the sensor once you break it free. Keep working it back and forth so it can work its way in. My sensor was about $80 (non-turbo) at Advance Auto Parts. They might give you a few choices of sensor; I took the one that was multipurpose. 2. You'll need to follow the wiring harness up to where it connects, unplug it. 3. Back under the car; cut the wires as close to the old sensor as you can. Don't try re-wiring under the car unless you have something to get it high enough to really work. 4. Pull the harness up top but make sure you follow the path so you can send it back down the same way. 5. The sensor will come with a package of anti seize, three wires (1 black and 2 while), connectors, and a shrink wrap sleeve for a water tight seal. Simply connect the wires back together (up top), clamp them down, pull the sleeve over and use a hair dryer on high heat to shrink the sleeve. 6. Cover the sensor with something clean and fish it back down the way the harness came up. 7. Get back under the car again, put some anti seize on the threads (not on the sensor probe) and screw it back. 8. Go back up top and twist the harness counter clock wise to get the tension off until there's no pressure on it from screwing the sensor in. 9. Reconnect the harness and you're in business. 10. Disconnect the negative pole of the battery to clear the code (check engine) and reconnect it. It should take about 80 miles of driving for the computer to full register all the new information but you should see a difference in the way the engine runs sooner. If the check engine light comes back on, check the Air Mass Meter. It's located between the intake and air filter. It's very easy to get too and you can do two inspections that are both also easy. The first is to just visually inspect the inside. It looks a lot like an incandescent light bulb with the small thin wires. If any of them are not connected it's bad. The other test is to disconnect the Air Mass Meter but not the wiring harness, let the engine warm up to normal tempter, turn the car off and check to make sure the wires heat up to a glow, if it doesn't it's bad. The sensor is very expensive. I called the dealer and it was $425 but there was a place on the internet I found that had a remanufactured one for $175. Have fun and good luck! "PAPAGENE4JACK" <barberirealtynospamcom> wrote in message news:<84be07d576285245f7a1bc227372a711nospamlhost.talkaboutautos.com>... > I have a bad oxogen sensor and i would like to repace it myself. Can > anyone tell me what If this is as easy as it looks or am I in for some > surprises. Any advice would be appreciated. > > > Thanks papa
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
