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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:47:14 +0100
From: Sleeker GT Phwoar <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com>
Subject: Re: C900 T16  Brakes soft


In article <6HE5e.57123$Nr5.51208nospamnews.blueyonder.co.uk>, alistairdorenospamo.com says... > My brakes are no where near as sharp as I would like them. My specialist > reported the pads as 50% worn, discs changed within last 12 months. I > wonder whether I am asking too much of them, having stepped down(?) from a > 9000 2.3FPT to a C900 T16 with no ABS. They can be very good or very poor. > If I brake really hard the car seems to yaw to the right, it's a bit like a > pole has been put through the roof in the centre of the car and its twisting > round that. It's not a very noticeable effect, but it's definitely there. > Maybe a calliper jamming? It can be a caliper jamming. What year C900 is it? Because the early T16's used the same brakes as the older C900 and 99, the later C900 used a similar if not the same setup as a 9000. They can be interchanged, but the easiest method involves swapping the rear beam axle and you need the newer style front hunbs too. > I read a while back that brake fluid should be changed every 18 months or > so. Maybe that would help, along with new pads anyway. Any > thoughts/recommendations. Roughly two years for brake fluid. What are the flexi hoses like? With age they can deteriorate and swell instead of psuhing the fluid, and even at MOT time, they may pass, but burst shortly after. New rubber hoses will help, braided hoses will feel much firmer but be counted as a modification if that may affect your insurance. > How easy is it to change the brake fluid? I know the process, and I've > changed cylinders on drum brakes and bled the system before, so I'm fairly > confident I can do it myself. As long as our good friends at Trollhatten > didn't make it too fiddly for us amateurs..... > The best way to change the fluid is with a large container of fluid suspensed of the reserve. And either a pressure bleeder (you can make one your self using a garden pump sprayer), or a vacuum pump bleeder that sucks the fluid through rather than blowing it. Kinder to seals too. Make sure you have enough fluid for the whole system, start the furthest away from the master cylinder, work round until closest, so right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Just keep pumping fluid through until you get clean clear bubble free fluid through. Spray the nipple with something plusgas or your favourite other releasing agent the night before if you can. Last thing you want is to break a bleed nipple. Also if you need new pads, do them first, as the new piston position will raise the fluid level. When you are done with the pressure bleeder the reserve will probably be over full, use an old turkey baster to lift out any extra. -- Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot) http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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