Date: Sun, 01 May 2005 01:18:07 GMT
From: "Dexter J" <>
Subject: Re: saab 9000cse poor running

Salutations: On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 22:55:25 GMT, michael spencer via <> wrote: > > the head gasket is fine,when you drive it its great then for no reason > the > check engine warning comes on ,it then barely manages to tick over and it > has a flat spot on the accelerater,if its in gear it ticks over if not it > then stalls its an automatic which doesent came on today the > check > engine light i lifted the boneet checked some wires out it then later on > went out and drives fine again,i like the car its just an annoying > problem > i dont know what to look for or were to look any advice would be a weight > off my mind,the saab dealer found the lambda sensor faulty and the wiring > ,but they had it back 3 times its ran for 6 months no problems then back > as > it was before again thanks for any help,nice to know that people are > willing to help Yes - that is the limp mode kicking in. If you stop and turn off the car, then turn the key to the on position without starting - it will flash the check engine light for a hint (although a vague one because it can be *anything* connected to the indicated faulty system): 2 flashes - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor 3 flashes - Intake Air Temperature sensor 4 flashes - Coolant Temperature Sensor 5 flashes - Throttle Position Sensor 6 flashes - O2 Sensor 7 flashes - Adaptation 8 flashes - Purge valve 9 flashes - ECM fault Get someone who knows how to use a voltmeter to check the Safety Valve on the firewall for (approx) 30 ohms resistance when the engine is hot. After that - you need to check for loose vacuum hoses all around the MAP sensor (rectangular block beside the Safety Valve on the firewall) and finally check all the hoses and wire connections around and under the intake manifold. Really - the Trionic system isn't *truly* a standalone digital engine management system. It relies heavily on several electro-mechanical devices and sensors to feed it. In my own case, a number of these devices and sensors were replaced to no avail by myself and the previous owner - because the actual connector on one of them was simply misaligned and would present false resistances to the computer. Hence my other thread.. The fact that it operates correctly again when you "check around the wires" and close the hood is interesting. In my case, my shop (Halifax Autosports) and I finally clued to the fact that the machine would normally fail when Mrs Dexter J would be out and about with the kids (with all the long, concerned conversations about the wisdom of buying a 'Utility Classic' those sort of problems bring about). .. :/ .. Basically - when one of the kids hopped in the front seat and slammed the door - they would jog the connector enough so that it would momentarily loose connection enough to change resistance and thereby trigger one of many erroneous CEL codes as noted above. That was finally the tip that lead Mr Parson's and I down the right path. Basically - the computer and scanner were being feed incorrect data - which then lead to incorrect diagnoses by *several* shops and dealers down the line before and after I bought her. It was maddening and remarkably expensive to finally figure that out - I can assure you. On the other hand, I have a lot of fresh sensors, intake and ignition components on the car that are likely to last for quite a while longer I suppose. I even have a spare DI cassette now. Which brings up another piece of advise, never throw away a replaced part for a while after the repair - it may be that it was perfectly fine in first place. Anyway - don't be afraid to poke around under the hood yourself, I actually set-up a quick disconnect on the battery to reset codes over the winter while we worked it through. -- Radio Free Dexterdyne Top Tune o'be-do-da-day Patio Lanterns - Kim Mitchell all tunes - no cookies no subscription no weather no ads no news no phone in no sign up required - all the Time

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