Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 16:33:36 GMT
From: "Al" <alistairdorenospamo.com>
Subject: Re: Manual Boost Control/Bleed Valve......


"Sleeker GT Phwoar" <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com> wrote in message news:MPG.1d6bc02e38d69ab798b2f3nospam.individual.net... > In article <BF225393.157DD%pjghnospamyonder.co.uk>, pjghnospamyonder.co.uk > says... >> The threads are very short on the Garrett charger setups. Shorten the arm >> by >> two and half full turns in the first instance and road test. Ideally, >> 0.35 >> bar is just right for standard setup, so you might need another half >> turn, >> or so to get it bang on. If you like it now ... You'll love it when it >> has >> the right power! >> > Yep. Doesn't look much thread, but it is pretty fine. > > When I did mine, first thing to do is set the preload. Should be about > 3mm. > Disconnect the actuator rod. when left slack, it should be about 3mm too > short to nip onto the stud it clips on. It should stretch until it clips > on. After that, tweakit a turn at a time. Alternatively, space the > actuator from it's mount with washers, can give you a little more room > on the rod threads to play with. > -- > Carl Robson > Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz > Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com Yeah baby! the AMM certainly helped but sorting out the base boost has done the trick. It was a nervous few minutes freeing off the lock nut etc without twisting the actuator. Three turns has given me a further 0.1bar base so a further 2 to 3 turns is required. However, just had a cold one so I'll leave it for now. Drinking and driving don't mix. Cheers Al

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