Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 21:26:58 -0400
From: KeithG <noonenospamay.com>
Subject: Re: crank pulley


Craig's Saab C900 Site wrote: > Stephen Grimes <grimesnospammington.in.us> writes: > > >>>>>I am looking for a crank pulley (harmonic balancer) for my 1991 900S. If >>>>>you have one in good shape, please contact me directly. >>>>> >>>> >>>>Don't bother with a used one, just buy a new one and you won't have to mess >>>>with it for another 15 years. >>>> >>> >>>Should be able to get an aftermarket one for only ~$80. It's not the kind of >>>job you want to have to do every weekend. ;-) >>> > > >>Thanks to those of you who responded. Clearly I never want to worry about >>replacing the crank pulley again. Having said that, the clutch needs to >>be replaced soon and I also seem to have coolant leaking onto the drivers' >>side carpet (heater valve issue?). I lost AC sometime recently too. I'd >>love to see my car running 5-10 years from now, but at some point I might >>have to give up. Clearly the decision to look for a new or used part is a >>part of a larger decision we all need to face sooner or later. > > >>Having said that, is a reconditioned crank pulley going to be better than >>one from Dave H.'s garage or elsewhere? Nevermind that here in Indiana >>used C900 parts and junkyard cars seem hard to come by. > > > You're better off opting for a new crankshaft pulley (aka harmonic > balancer). There are a lot of online automotive parts outlets that have huge > inventories of parts available, and you can check pricing, etc. for new > parts that way to compare against what Saab repair outlets quote you. > > One thing to bear in mind - it's not an easy job and while it can be done > with the engine in the car (there is a special tool just for it because of > the very limited clearance), if you can get a new pulley have it fitted by a > Saab mechanic as they can also check all the belts, etc. at the same time > and replace any that need to be changed. > > The other thing that can be done at the same time is changing the crankshaft > oil seal at that end of the engine - that's another reason to opt for having > a Saab mechanica do the job but if you feel up to it, buy new parts and > replace the pulley and oil seals as well yourself, and check out the belts > too. New belts are available everywhere - just get the right spec ones and > you can use any generic brand that has a good reputation. > > Getting back to the crankshaft pulley's for a moment, the Saab part numbers > for them vary quite a bit throughout the years that the B201 main block was > used (1981 up to 1993 basically). The three part numbers which might be > correct for your engine are: > > 91 07 665 - Turbo 1989+ > 87 89 315 - Fuel Injection 1989 > 1990 (requires 91 17 201) > 87 89 315 - Fuel Injection 1991+ > > Most likely you need the second part number. I'm not sure what the 91 17 201 > part is - anyone know from experience? I'm assuming that Saab did actually > keep making carburettor-equipped engines right up to the early 1990's? > Perhaps optional to the 8V B201's they kept producing until the late > 1980's... I've never heard of a B201 block with 16V head that had > carburettors instead of LH fuel injection. 8-) > > One place I buy new Saab parts from when I can't get them from Saab-specific > online sellers or a local Saab repair outlet at a decent price is Autohaus > AZ at "http://www.autohausaz.com". Another one to check is Saab Auto Engine > Parts at "http://www.saab-engine-parts.com". > > Regards, > > Craig. Actually it is not that bad. Just get a standard socket. You may have to cut it down, but maybe not. I am 1 for 1. To cut it down, I just took off 1/4" in a lathe. Put this socket on a breaker bar, Brace it against the LHS 'frame rail' and have someone tap the starter. Piece of cake. To tighten have the same person put a BA Screwdriver to restrain one of the flywheel teeth while you tighten it as tight as you can with that 18" craftsman breaker bar. While you are there, replace the oil pump oring (2.00) and front main seal 7.00. That will stop the one leak off the front of the engine that you have now. http://townsendimports.com/Web/engine_folder/front_crank_seal900.htm Keith

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