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9-5 wagon trailer hitch install
Posted by Glenn Wallace (more from Glenn Wallace) on Tue, 4 Jul 2000 10:57:32
I installed the Saab trailer hitch kit 48-25-667 on to our 9-5 wagon yesterday. Dealer quoted me US$500 labor to install. (!)
[I've also installed the mudflaps, side cargo net, nylon retractable cargo net (goes up from back seat), sliding load floor, and hands free cellphone kit. Email if you need details.]
[Next on my list is the 12v cargo outlet, which I dread as the wires have to run to the center console; good planning or what??!?!?!]
Took me about 6 hrs, though if you don't make bone headed errors like me, you could probably do it in 5.
So, for archival purposes, I will commit the following addendum to the global cosmic consciousness.
Notes (correspond to step numbers in instructions):
****: get a blanket or quilt to use to rest the bumper on the ground if needed during install. ****
3: you'll need a universal joint for 3/8' drive or a flex extension to undo the 17mm nuts on the bumper. One Torx (T-25) in wheelarch and one 10mm bolt underside. If you have mudflaps fitted you only need to remove the three outer T-25's to remove the bumper.
4: once unscrewed (T-35), the rear lights pull out to the side, not the rear.
6: the piece they are referring to is the upper black piece which is sort of a scuff protector. I removed these 4 10mm bolts and forget them upon reinstall!! (I was able to do it from under the car but leave them in the bumper reinforcement)
8: the spacers are aluminum, held on with double sided tape. Scrape the tape off.
10: very hard to get 20lbf ft without a motorcycle torque wrench!! As these are self tapping screws, it is also easy to strip the aluminum reinforcement as I found out. Fix: 8mm (1.25 pitch) nuts and internal star washers (I used 5/16' I think). You'll need to remove the reinforcement and notch the bumper foam to clear the nuts. Probably stronger with the nuts there anyway. :)
12: no sealant to scrape off. Do NOT use the nuts to hold the bumper on - too much work. Get a friend to hold the bumper hard against the car while you drill.
13: drill from the INSIDE of the car, using the sleeves as guides. ($no39sdcx6spamx782#! Swedish translation). I used a wrench to push the harness down (both sides) while drilling. I used a 25/64' bit. It worked.
17: Terotex HV400 costs $35 for a tube from Saab. I just used Rustoleam paint to paint around where I had drilled.There was plenty of rustproofing already there as well. Dealer said they don't do anything special and don't use the Terotex either.
19: getting the 4 nuts done up is quite difficult. :/ I used Silly Putty to hold the nuts in a deep 17mm socket and some string to lift the socket and align it.
21: the inner ones may not line up correctly until the bumper is on tight. You may need to lever it a bit to get the bolts lined up and started.
22 and 24: I think you could skip this.
28: screw was missing from kit. I used a self tapping sheet metal screw. However I feel incredible guilt that it wasn't a Torx screw. :) I also taped the ground wire out of the way of the jack storage.
Nicer finish than the 900/9-3 kit as no bumper notching is required.
Glenn
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