2.0T misfire and slow start then won't fire at all - Saab 9-3SS Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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2.0T misfire and slow start then won't fire at all
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Posted by Darell [Email] (more from Darell) on Sat, 15 Dec 2012 06:57:48 Share Post by Email
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Hi all. Providing a description of my issue with hopes I can get some input/advice.

I have a 2007 93 2.0T with auto transmission. Here's a chronological listing of the symptoms over a year I've had and what I've done:

First, the car started running rough with a misfire and jerking when you would start it and it was cold out side. If it was say 50F, it would not do it, but if it was 30F it would. Once the car ran some and warmed up, the misfire and jerking would stop. Intermittent check engine light. Checked the OBD II code and was seeing a misfire in cylinder 1. Summer came and my symptoms went away (probably because it was always warm). OBD II code went away also. I replaced the spark plugs.

Fall/Winter comes and the symptoms come back but in addition, the car starts slowly when it is cold. In stead of starting right away, it would turn over for approximately 5 seconds before starting. Then I'd have my misfire and jerking until the engine heated up. Once the engine heated up, and I shut the car off, it would start immediately, no extended cranking.

After maybe a month, the extended cranking got longer up to approximately 10 seconds and the extended cranking would happen when the engine was warm also. This happened for about a week then the car would not start at all. Just will sit there and crank until the battery is dead. No check engine light. At first, it seemed that it wanted to fire while cranking maybe once every 5 seconds or so, but now it doesn't fire at all. [now I realize I should have looked into the issue sooner] The check engine light did come on when it wouldn't start at all, but the code was a random misfire code. Battery then went dead = no code history.

I did a little troubleshooting. I swapped the plugs out with the ones I replaced. No change. I checked the fuel pressure when I turned the key on. It shows at 38 PSI which is approximately 2.6 bar and is less than the listed 3.0 +/- .1. Changing the pressure regulator is a cheap enough try, but finding one at this point seems to be an issue (at least where I've bought parts in the past). I'm leaning toward changing the fuel pressure regulator, then the Ionization Control Module, then the fuel pump.

Any input or advice will be greatly appreciated.

-Darell

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