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2006 9-5 Manual with 60,000 miles
Last Thursday (see a page or two back)I asked for help on an intermittent no crank/start problem deteriorating into a stalling at stoplights issue.
I replaced the Crankcase Position Sensor (thanks to AdamSaab2kAero's advice)and the stalling is cured, in fact the car feels livelier, it pulls stronger down low and seems to have more power. (As my other car is a 99 Viggen, I have a point of comparison.) The car seems to start easier also, but I need more time to believe the ignition switch isn't bad as the no start when the key is turned could disappear for a day or so, then reappear. But it's starting on the first turn of the key today.
This can be a frustrating DIY as the part is buried down low on the block at an odd angle and is not easily accessed. But it is not that hard in hindsight. For those that wish to try, here is my experience with it.
Remove the engine cover around the oil filler tube, as you will need to access the wiring harness of the sensor. I removed the battery and battery box, that lets you get to the negative ground to clean the contact point on the transmission and gives some elbow room. Pull the 10mm bolt and clip that holds the left side of that silver tube that runs from the blow off valve back to the turbo inlet, (DON'T lose the hold down clip), then just pull and rotate the tube/blow off valve in its rubber tube mounts clockwise out of the way, don't disconnect the blow-off valve, its not necessary. I pulled the upper O2 sensor to get a better shot at the CPS unit itself, and removed the bolt that secures the blow off valve and intake tube bracket to the right side of the head for extra wiggle room. I taped over the O2 sensor hole and the opening where the blow off valve tube goes into the turbo, you don't need anything falling in there.
Use a #30 Torx bit/socket on a universal joint, and an 18 inch extension on a ratchet so you can work from above the engine bay- anything shorter leaves you hitting something with your ratchet handle in the engine bay - very frustrating. I used blue painters tape to control the movement of the universal so I could line it up with the screw holding the sensor; the weight of the Torx socket causes the universal to flop around and lose its angle of attack on the Torx bolt. Although I hit the Torx bolt with PB Blaster, it wasn't real tight and it came right out. Loosen it and use your left hand to finish removing it. Be sure to place some rags under the sensor to catch the bolt in case you drop it. Remove the metal heat shield, twist and remove the sensor, make sure you recover a rubber O ring from the block that prevents oil leaks, your new sensor will have a new O ring. If not done right this sensor will leak oil.
Follow the wire harness up to the connector next to the throttle body and remove the clip on the connector, it's the same type as the connector to the ignition cassette, push the red clip out until the connector is free. Use a long flat blade screwdriver from above to push two tabs on the sides of the blue connector to free the connector from its metal mount, push it down and follow the harness where it is clipped to the black air intake tube and remove it.
Reassemble by cleaning the mounting area and hole in the engine block, and push the new sensor in, I used a long piece of 1x1 wood to lightly tap the sensor in fully as suggested by someone on the board. Line up the mounting holes on the heat shield, sensor and the transmission and insert the Torx bolt. Using blue painters tape again, I taped the head of the Torx bolt to the #30 bit and, holding the heat shield with my left hand, I lined up the bolt taped to the Torx bit/universal/extension into the mounting hole with my right hand, as I couldn't get my hand in there to start it, (and make sure you have the metal heat shield in place before screwing down the bolt). Once started, use the extensions and ratchet to secure it tight from above. Route the harness and reattach the blue connector into its metal bracket from below the bracket, attach the blue and red connector from above and reassemble the blow off tube, O2 sensor, battery box, etc.
The car runs SO much better I am going to do the CPS on the Viggen, at 74,000 miles it's probably overdue anyway. And it seemed to be faster in the past.....
eEuro has a Bosch sensor for $75, but I got mine from Autozone for $107, which includes a lifetime warranty, I couldn't wait for UPS/FedEx or back order. Interestingly, the Autozone site explains symptoms of a failing CPS, among them is bad gas mileage, which kind of supports the stronger feeling of my car after the repair, so maybe this is a part that should be replaced every 60k as it seems to slowly deteriorate if it doesn't fail completely. Not easy due to the close quarters under the hood, but it is a doable DIY with patience.
Hope this helps someone, and thanks to Adam and John Meyer for their advice.
posted by 69.119.202...
, Thu, 2 Aug 2012 17:57:39, Thu, 2 Aug 2012 18:04:17
, Thu, 2 Aug 2012 02:53:50
, Wed, 1 Aug 2012 21:45:33
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