1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
As far as the mechanic provided repair list and costs goes, that's actually quite reasonable. It's obvious he's given you a list of "since we're down there" items - taking care of as much as possible at one time, which saves you money in the long run. But if the amount is too much at present, here's what I think. Not having inspected your car, mind you...
Unless the ball joints are clearly shot (loose and floppy when disconnected from top and bottom A-frames, or perhaps evident with a good lateral shaking when the wheel is suspended), and all the oil and fluid leaks are in the beginning stage of leaking (you can always park above a drip pan to avoid the driveway mess factor), the inner driver, CV boots and clutch would concern me the most. When the CV boots go, they're obvious - grease flies out and coats whatever is in it's "spin zone". A worn inner driver is a vibration machine that can harm other transmission and drive components. Finally, you need your clutch to drive!
If the inner driver job was to be done by mechanic, I might be talked into also replacing the CV boots as a matter of course.
The leaky rack - wow. I just replaced mine (good rebuilt). It was leaking pretty badly. I managed to put off the job for a good three months while using the stop leak fluids, which did slow it down some. It is indeed messy, clumsy, but DIY doable all the same. Removal of both tie rod ends, plus both connecting hoses (one is 18 mm, the other 16mm) was the secret. And a long 1/2 drive breaker bar. Just have bowls and rags on hand to catch and absorb draining fluids. And clean away as much grime as possible around the entire area you'll be working. Unless you enjoy stuff falling in your eyes.
Good luck!
posted by 205.188.199...
, Thu, 9 May 2002 15:00:09
, Thu, 9 May 2002 10:23:42, Thu, 9 May 2002 15:01:45, Thu, 9 May 2002 16:47:45, Thu, 9 May 2002 03:55:00, Thu, 9 May 2002 01:57:25
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