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1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
If I was faced with this list (and I HAVE at various times/various cars), Lump all the items for the front suspension together; ball joints, CV boot,steering rack, and inner driver.
things you'll need:
4 ball joints
complete set (4) of replacement CV boots with new clamps or use plastic wire ties; 1/4 in by 14 inches long. While you're in there you might as well change all the boots. You'll have everything apart anyways.
high temp wheel bearing grease
new inner driver or good used
1/2 inch metric socket set with a 24" breaker bar
add a 22mm impact socket for the axle nut
set of open/box end metric wrenchs
2 pound hammer
external circlip pliers (sears)
rebuilt steering rack
2 quarts GM type power steering fluid
2 pieces of hardwood 2" x 2" x 1/2" thick
ball joint tool : pickle fork from napa works since you replacing the ball joints
BENTLEY Manual
LIQUID WRENCH !!
note; if the drivers have never been changed or moved before it is possible to swap them side to side so the unworn faces in the driver are
taking the load. another discussion perhaps.
Do the Drivers side 1st (so you get the confidence to do the inner driver on the pass. side).
pull the hub cap
use the 22mm socket and breaker bar to remove the big hub nut. you'll have to stand/jump on the bar to loosen it.
reach behind the wheel & put the pieces of wood under the upper 'A' arm where it comes out of the body.
loosen the wheel nuts
jack the car up,put jack stands under it (lower 'A arm rear pivot point) pull the wheel off
remove the nut at the bottom of the shock, pull the shock off the stud (may need a small bottle jack or the jack from the trunk to raise the lower 'A' arm a bit)
unhook the parking brake cable
flatten the lockin tabs on the brake caliper bolts, remove the bolts
hang the caliper fron the spring with a piece of wire
remove the 2 bolts & nuts holding the BJs to the 'A'arms, 2 each
pull the hub assembly with BJs out, the drive shaft will stay in the car
reach WAAY in an remove the big clamp from the inner driver boot
pull the edge of the boot outward enough clear the lip if the inner driver
pull the drive shaft out
now that it's apart what are you gonna do?
on the hub assembly:
17mm socket - remove the nut that hold the BJ to the hub, leave the nut on about a turn and a half
wack the nut with your 2 lb. hammer, whan the BJ is free, remove the nut and pull the old BJ out
repeat on the other one
clean everything
turn the actual inner hub very carefully and look/losten for any noise or play, this would be the time to do a wheel bearing if needed.
put the new ball joint into the hub assembly
hit the top of the BJ firmly to set the stub tight enough to tighten th 17mm nut
on to the drive shaft
on the end that was toward the transmission clean it well
DO NOT LET THE ROUNDED WHEELS COME OFF THE TRIPOD THING
if you do you spend an eternity looking for tiny little roller bearings, ask me how I know.....
at the end of the shaft, buried in grease is an external circlip. use you new circlip pliers and remove it, then remove the tripod, the inner boot, and the outer boot. (remember, you're doing all the boots while you're in here)
clean the entire drive shaft thoroughly, an oil drain pan, some kerosene and a stiff brush works wonders
pack the OUTER driver with as huch grease as you can get in it move ther joint around to work the grease inside, pack about 1/2 cup more around the shaft, sllde the new outer boot on and secure it using the clips that came with it or the plastic wire ties
slide the boot for the inner driver on the shaft, until it's where the old one sat
reach in to the inner driver and thoroughly clean it
pack the innder driver full of grease
slide the drive shaft in ( i usually cover the new/clean end with a baggy to keep the crud from the wheel wells out)
work the boot over the lip of the driver and gently turn it until the tripods engage, then slide it all the way in
clamp the inner end of the boot
pick up the hub assembly, start the lower BJ into the lower 'A' arm , don't set it all the way in, just enough to have the 1st hole line up enough to stick a screw driver in to keep it from sliding out
start the end of the driveshaft into the hub
work the upper BJ into the 'A' arm
set the lower all the way in and get the bolts started but not tight
repeat with the upper
put the nut on the shaft end, dont try to tighten it, just firm
finish tighening the ball joint bolts
put the brake caliper back on, don't forget to bend the locking tabs back
hook up the hand brake cable
connect the lower shock mount
put the wheel back on
put the car back on the ground
remove the wooden pieces
now tighten the center hub nut to about 240 ft lbs
how the &*^^ do i judge 240 ft lb??
put the big socket and breaker bar on the nut so the end of the bar is a bit above horizontal.
assume you whiegh in at 200 pounds
if you stand on the breaker bar 1 ft (12") from the socket you're applying 200 ft lb of torqe,
you still need another 40 ft lbs, so
200/40 = 5
1 ft/5 = 12"/5 = 2.4"
so 240 ft lb will be out 1 ft plus 2 1/2 inches
so stand on the bar
put the hub cap back on
enjoy a couple of beers for a job well done
if you got through this side you can do everything else with the possible exception of the freeze plug, and the oil leak IF the leak is at the rear of the motor.
good luck
posted by 67.226.228...
, Thu, 9 May 2002 15:00:09
, Thu, 9 May 2002 10:23:42, Thu, 9 May 2002 15:01:45, Thu, 9 May 2002 16:47:45, Thu, 9 May 2002 03:55:00, Thu, 9 May 2002 01:57:25
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