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Re: you are right, but... Posted by vvack0matic [Email]  (#1443) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from vvack0matic) on Thu, 9 Aug 2007 17:49:09
In Reply to: Re: you are right, but..., KsaabB, Thu, 9 Aug 2007 13:07:04 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
they may have taken them out to get the wheel close as they could.
only problem, if the upper control arm bushings are gone, the only thing you should be looking forward to is one heck of an accident from when the metal arm of the control arm wares so much on the bushing housing one of them are going to give.
control arm snaps or the housing for the bushing breaks,and i guarantee this will only happen when your driving.
when the control arm breaks its going to send the road wheel up into the frame of the car, which will most likely lock the wheel from the rubber contacting the wheel well.
and with only one of the front wheels locked it will send the car in the direction of the locked wheel, and perhaps put the car into an intense spin.
if the car is equipped with anti-roll bars after 2 or 3 circles (traveling at 55) would come to a stop, if the car is not equipped with anti-roll bars the car will start the intense spin and will get half of the first circle done then it will flip, rolling the car 2 or 3 times. (at 55 mph)
now that you know how serious the upper control arm bushings are when the car flips i guess you can`t call it an accident any more.
because its only a matter of time.
and to make it worse with the removal of the shims,... when you do get the upper control arm bushings in, its going to give your car a case of bow legged. (on the one wheel)_
which is going to severely ware the tiers outer edge.
now lets back up for a moment, seeing the mechanic you brought the car to said it was or they think its the upper bushings.
(the u.c.bushings should only need to be replaced if the car knocks or clunk's when backing the car up and turning the wheel sharp to the left or right.)
this is a fool proof test. the clunk of the control arm will be heard in the cab with ease.
if the car dose not clunk perhaps the problem is elsewhere.
now for the shims to be removed to get the car to ride decent means there is a drastic problem some where.
the shims are approximately half an inch thick, and needing to remove all of them, means some object or part is destroyed.
something is so messed up you would be able to see it with your naked eye.
just by looking at the u.c.arm you should see the bushing missing.
bad wheel bearing would be so bad when jacking the car up the wheel will wobble back and forth aproximitly an inch in both directions with just your hand.
leaning under the car to look at the ball joints will show a severely destroyed ball joint.
where ever the problem is its massive.
jack the car up and do a visual inspection, look every-where and at every-thing looking for something destroyed, or missing, or bent.
reason being..... when your car flips i might be in front of you sitting at a red light and your car comes careening into mine.
and that would just sux
posted by 67.142.13...
, Wed, 8 Aug 2007 19:38:40, Thu, 9 Aug 2007 12:08:42, Thu, 9 Aug 2007 17:49:09 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 9 Aug 2007 21:36:50
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