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The seal for the push rod is normally not included in rebuild kits. As far as I know, NOBODY sells a rebuild kit that's much more than a piston seal and dust boots anymore, unfortunately. Last good one with all seals I got was in '06. Even when hot, brake caliper grease is too viscous to really move around much, so the plate with divots for the ball bearings provides a barrier around which grease does not travel en-masse.
You can use normal O-rings for the lever-arm outside seal, but these are probably not up to the task that the inner push-rod seal demands. I have idly searched for such a seal, but never really made an effort to find a replacement. I've been getting by on old seals for seven years now. No leaks...yet. Interestingly, the "rebuilt" calipers do seem to come with this seal. But the most critical thing to prevent leaks is to make sure your push rods aren't pitted. Little pits can be sanded and polished away, but you're probably better off replacing a pitted push rod.
The coaxial screw mechanism is, indeed, immersed in brake fluid. It doesn't seem to have a problem with that, however. The brake fluid hasn't really turned to varnish or gum on this part, in calipers I've seen (however, most cars I work on have been well-maintained). Generally the places to watch out for gumming, gelling, rusting, and varnishing are very tight clearances, such as those between cylinder wall and piston. Cylinder walls can be buffed with sandpaper. Pistons must be replaced if rusty, but varnish (which often looks like rust) can be removed from them with Scotch Brite or fine steel wool. Rust is easy to identify because I think the pistons are plated in hard chrome, which will often bubble and flake with rust.
posted by 66.109.49...
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