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APC wiring
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Posted by Landjet [Email] (#16) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Landjet) on Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:14:13 Share Post by Email
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1986 SPG

Well, we think it's an SPG. Lots of crazy modifications that are now being changed back to a stock condition. Engine/gearbox is out of the car.

There was a Greddy turbo installed, manual boost controller, the wrong injectors, RRFPR, strange BOV mounted externally, various crazy repairs like #1 and #4 pistons were flat top, whereas #2 & #3 were dish......the head had been "leveled" with a band sander......this is the most screwed up car I think I have ever seen.....NO RUST THOUGH

I'm trying to help out the shop I use that has it in for a customer who I am also acquainted with, so this is a true do-gooder kind of assist that we all need at some point.

SO -- the wiring is a mess.....I found the APC wires tucked down by the right front headlight and the insulation was almost gone from both the brown and yellow leads. I am going to guess that the manual boost control was installed as the wiring was shot, and perhaps they couldn't get the APC to function. Or they thought deleting the APC was a good thing even though they installed a "separate" knock sensor and mounted it under the intake manifold. It may have been put there to have a visual knock sensor on the dash, but I don't know....there was also a knock sensor installed on the engine but not connected to anything.

QUESTION: How do you test the APC leads to see if they are operational? I can check continuity to Pin 12, but is there a way to check to see if voltage is being delivered to the yellow wire? I can have the battery installed and turn on the ignition switch, but would that provide voltage without the pressure switch and knock sensor being energized?

OK, thanks in advance -- I remember working with Cmyles on a similar problem, and there was a page in the factory manual that offered fault tracing for APC problems, but I'll be damned if I can find it again....

OH, and yes, fuse 10 is OK.


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