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1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Alternator incident: Freak occurance
Thermostat froze: Change every 2 to 3 years ('stat failures don't do the head gasket any good)
Rear muffler: Mufflers fail, particularly in the frozen north
Fuel pump leak: Huh? That's weird
Auto transmission accumulator spring: Common, I think
Heater core: Common, but frequent coolant chages and Bar's Leaks prevent it. Thought they were supposed to do the labor for free on that recall
Headlight switch: Kinda freak-ish
Front pipe: Frozen north is hard on 'em
Right front caliper seized: Salt? Not real common. Is the brake fluid changed every 2 to 3 years?
4 new rotors and pads: Ripoff on the rear rotors - they never wear out. Nor the rear pads. Fronts do wear out. $1104 sounds outrageous
Cruise control: Almost certainly just a vacuum hose problem, not speed control ECU
Motor mount: Happens, in 100 K miles. Might have contributed to front pipe failure.
Expansion valve: Seems unusual. $668 is too much money
Hi beam relay: $123 is outrageous
Window switches: somewhat unusual
AC condenser, AC compressor and both lines: Compressor failure certainly isn't unusual, but they ripped you on the condensor and lines (unless one of the lines ruptured)
Washer reservoir and pump: Probably just a $5 valve failure.
Muffler: Frozen north syndrome.
Crank pulley, tensioner pulleys, serp belt: Reasonable things to do, outrageous charges ($790)
Head gasket: No excuse for this if the coolant and thermostat are changed regularly and Bar's Leaks is used.
Water pump? Why? Sounds like the lily was guilded a bit.
Ball joints: Guess the northern roads are hard on them ??? Mine are fine at 120 K.
Fuel pump: Kind of unusual.
Three years/$10,000: In 3 1/2 years, I've spent about a third of that, doing my own work. That includes a clutch (expected), mounts (cleaned up previous owner's neglect), AC (twice), DI (failure was my fault, I think), belts and idler pulleys (maintenance), 2 CV boots (no joints) and alternator brushes (preventive). If you leave out the stuff I had to do to get the car in shape originally, it's under $2500. Leave out things that resulted from my own ignorance and occasional incompetance (yes, it jhappens to all of us!), and we're a shade under $2000.
You're at the mercy of the dealer. A good independent would be better, but you're still at their mercy. I think the dealer is doing more than is required in some cases - and doing things that simply are not required in some cases - but that's just my hunch. The prices you are paying are rather exhorbitant, but that's the way it is with dealers.
You might have to replace the DI at $400 to $500. The trans might last forever, or it might not (if it fails: $5000 at the dealer, I'd guess). The blower motor will probably fail soon (probably $500 at the dealer). If the CV joint boots have not ever been changed, have the outer ones replaced NOW. If they try to talk you into inner boots, make them show you a problem with them before you say yes, because they don't normally fail. Likewise, don't let them replace a CV joint unless the boots are actually split (and they should not let them get to that point). I can't think of anything else that's likely to go.
If you hang onto the car, I would recommend:
Replace the brake fluid, the coolant and thermostat, the power steering fluid, the air cleaner element, the serpentine belt and the two idler pulleys, and the spark plugs every two years or 30000 miles. Have them inspect the CV joint boots closely at this time. They ought to be able to do all that for around $600. It's terrific insurance, at $300 per year.
I'd have the trans fluid and filter changed yearly/15000 miles. The engine oil and filter should be done at least twice that often.
Have them change the fuel filter now, if it hasn't ever been done. Also, have them inspect the CV joint boots, and replace any that are developing any cracks. Don't wait till they split, as joints are really expensive.
posted by 206.175.1...
, Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:42:00
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