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Ron is pointing to the most likely
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Posted by Lu [Email] (more from Lu) on Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:19:34 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Strange., Geza in CA, Fri, 22 Oct 2004 17:23:25
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If a short were present there would be an open fuse from the excess current. Too many times that label is applied to describe an unknown problem, in this case examine the damaged and the good tail light bulb / conductor assemblies and suspect water / rust traces. Clean em up. Then look at how the wires push in and are spring contacted to the brass strips. If loose this is higher resistance which lowers current which is what is measured by the pictogram control module in the back as the front one for each end of the car. A new bulb can throw off the balance of current draw so it is best to replace a pair at a time and make sure they are of the same mfg. Then look at the grd wire from the lamp assem. to their respective bolt stud grd contact. Loosen, clean up, tighten, and once you have it all corrected go back and spray with batt term spray to waterproof the grd's. Some have soldered the wires onto the brass strips in the lamp assem. to make certain of good contact. They are made for fast manufacture not total reliability.
Haz blinker, does turns work ok but just not the haz function? My 93 book probably is same wireing as yours but your location is diff. Still on pass side just under dash or behind kick panel due to addition of air bag. Can't find diagrams in my recent move but look at haz switch and make sure it passes steady voltage both sides so blinker module gets a solid emerg trigger. The module may well be toast but so may the switch.

Headlight lenses are expesive but comb the junk yards or look for someone parting out a cadaver 9000.

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