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Hello All.
I'm here on the boards to hopefully get jumped to a diagram of the braking system(hydraulic) and it's electrical diagram as well.
I have the flame-worthy "hard brakes"
I noticed recently that there is a wire that looks non-OEM underneath the fuse panel related to the ABS(2 relays and 3-4 30A fuses). I will supply more info on request. I am wondering if a shady mechanic might have "rigged" a repair here to actuate the booster relay, in turn activating the Booster. I'm kneeling in hopes that the relay is bust. I dont want to go fiddling, though, with that funky rigged wire in the mix.
you see, i'm just guessing at it, really, without some maps.
i dont have a "brake" or "ABS" light on in the dash. ABS works-tested on a wet day. stopping distances are good.
like mister 95 Aero, replacing the pads results in a few months of satisfied driving.
I would also like ot know (from experiences, not opinions) if using Generic Pads will cause this sort of event, or not. for 40$ i'll try it anyway, long before the booster or accumuator ; )
Otherwise my executive missile is awesome. Full boost is restored after this weekend's ECU resetting.
end of inquiry-begin lovely story of my weekend repairs
my weekend:
bleed clutch, replace thermostat with low temp version, flush coolant and rejuvinate-including sealant, serpentine belt (you dont need the tool or a friend if you have a flat headed screwdriver and "thread" it along the pulley between the PS and Alternator, fuel filter, tranmission mount (modified with fuel line in each of the two triangular lower openings.)
the trans mount edit makes a noticable difference in engine rock, but not in vibration. I suggest it, as it limited motion of motor, but is (in my opinion) a more balanced change than the lower/upper mount mods since it is more along the axis of power delivery. My opinion, but based on some engineering background and common sense
thanks ahead,
Julian Santa-Rita
posted by 12.14.232...
, Tue, 8 Nov 2005 08:41:11
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